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Westerbeke 15.0BTDB

Discussion in 'Generators' started by 92Searay-37', May 27, 2022.

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  1. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    I have a new to me Westerbeke 15.0BTDB genny. Starting to learn it and performing all its annual maintenance to have clear starting point for myself.

    First, we use our genny´s, boat leaves the slip, genny goes on and doesn´t get turned off till we get to our next slip, sometimes that´s multiple days as we anchor often.

    Second, last weekend we had the genny on and it ran great, about 4 or 5 hours in I had noticed that some electrical components on the boat had stopped working, water pump, one AC and our oven would not power on.

    The genny was still running but noticed on the AC Voltage meter that the needle was pegged and the genny was putting out at least 140-150 volts (it may have been more but needle can only go so far).

    Turned genny on/off, same issue 140/150 volts.

    We had planned on going back to slip that night and when we did and plugged into shore power we had normal power and everything worked fine minus our master stateroom AC, no power.

    AC guy came down this week and board in the AC unit was blown, that was replaced. I don´t know if that was a cause of the voltage jumped by seems likely.

    I fired up the genny and it went back to producing the 120 volts, turned beakers on one by one and it stayed there.

    Could this be the voltage regulator going bad? Previous owner mentioned he was told by mechanic to keep the clear view window on sound shield open to let air in as maybe its temperature related?

    Doesn´t make sense after 4 or 5 hours of running? it would have been hot in there after an hour.

    Any ideas and/or suggestions on where to look? Anyone have this issue?

    Thanks in advance.
  2. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    It does sound like the voltage regulator. Not familiar with that genny though. I had a regulator going bad on my Norpro 18 but I caught it right away as the meters on my panels have low and high alarms. I shut it down right away without damage

    I wouldn’t run that gen without replacing the VR

    you shouldn’t have to leave part of the enclosure open. And yes after just 30 minutes everything will be nice and toasty in there but it s supposed to be designed to handle it
  3. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    Same thing happened this weekend.

    This time I immediately shut generator off once I noticed the high voltage. I went to restart and it started but ran a a very low rpm. I pulled the front sound shield panel off and notice the actuator pulled in. I wiggled the lever actuator is connected to and it came right back up to rpms. I left sound shield panel off and it ran fine, no high voltage for hours.

    Could that actuator be going bad and not respond to high temperatures? That´s still seems weird to me as the generator runs for an hour long run at cruise and with 2 engines running sure does create a lot of heat.

    Is actuator controlled by voltage regulator?
  4. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    When you say actuator are you talking about the governor? It sounds to me like you may have governor issues. If it won't apply power (increase rpm) under load or power down when load sheds you likely have governor issues I would think.
  5. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    but that would affect frequency which is RPM dependent, not voltage.
  6. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    yes actuator is the governor on this genny
  7. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    I spoke to Westerbeke's master distributor for our area and they directed me towards the voltage regulator and rectifier, I am going to start by replacing those.

    Although pricy components they are available and I believe I can do that myself. With limited genny mechanics around me I would most likely spend the same on someone coming down and looking around without a solution I trust. And one place I due trust is 7 weeks out.

    If those components don't change the actuator will be next (I can tell that has already been replaced, its shiny and new looking).

    I do think air has something to do with it, but hopefully that is because of some failing/aging parts.
  8. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Let us know how you make out with the new voltage regulator. What are your thoughts on how air is contributing to your issue?

    FWIW - my old Onan 20kw would never hold Hz correctly even with a new (rebuilt) governor. My point is - just because a part has been replaced doesn't mean that part is working correctly.
  9. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Temperature can cause issues with electronics so it’s possible that a lack of air flow is causing issues with a VR that’s aging and possibly having issues.
  10. Lepke

    Lepke Member

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    Westerbeke doesn't make small components. Try searching the numbers and info on your regulator and rectifier. Try ebay.
    Most of the time you can find the parts online at a fraction of Westerbeke's price.
  11. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Sorry I 'm late to chime in. I'm not into Westerbeke (Wester breaks) although I'm a Mitsubishi engine fan.
    That actuator is the run enable solenoid connected to the governor fuel lever. As many simple designs the same works for many other engine mfgs.
    It is a full throw run / not run, electro mechanism.
    Sometimes they get stuck in mid position for many reasons. You stated a newer unit. That may shine some light.
    Hold that thought;
    These run solenoids require a full voltage to pull into the run position. Some units may switch down to a lower current draw winding but still require a good and steady voltage to operate correctly.
    Hold that thought;
    Later voltage regulators controlling an exciter winding require a good and steady DCvoltage also. For example, the AVR is trying to supply the exciter windings a varying exciter voltage to control the output ACv.
    Hold that thought;
    Your thinking heat is causing some problems......
    Hold that thought;

    Most can see where I'm going here but I just got another rum and on a roll..:D

    Heat goes up, resistance goes up, run solenoid was found not pulled in completely,, you have a (some) bad connections somewhere.
    This is where I have issues with Wester breaks. To much alloy and junk involved for electrical connects.

    Engine speed does supply power. But a correctly running engine, its speed is frequency sensitive. Hence the governor set at 1800 RPM to make 60 HTZ on a 4 pole alternator.
    Your comment of over voltage is not going to happen on engine speed.
    A run solenoid all pulled in, is not throttle control. It is not going to over pull and over speed.
    But then, just HTZ goes up.
    Over voltage is caused by over excitement. The AVR is misreading its DCv input and messing up its DCv output. Oh, remember that run solenoid not pulling in completely?
    Only an over voltage exciter winding will over volt ACv output.

    You have a (or more) bad connection(s) in the DCv connects in the controller box. Yes, it could be the AVR and you may correct the bad connect just by replacing the AVR.
    When the problem returns, return with your brass tooth brush and contact cleaner and polish every connect in and around the controller box, bonding straps in/out of the box and the battery straps.
    You may fix it yet.

    And again, every good gen-set bug is to far away from me...
    A plot??
  12. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    Appreciate the insight, I plan on starting to work on it tomorrow.

    I received the parts today and when I open everything up I will make sure all connections are solid.

    Stay tuned!
  13. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    Well don't know if its good news or bad news but this genny does not have the optional voltage regulator (in the Westerbeke owners manual it does say it is an optional add on). I removed all wire connections, cleaned (they were not dirty or corroded) and added a little electrical grease.

    I did replace the bridge rectifier just because I had ordered that part and it was only $30. disconnected actuator and made sure all those connections were clean and solid. Next step is to run the boat and genny and see what happens.
  14. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    The bridge rectifier will need thermal grease between itself and the case mount. That can get rather warm and cause issues.
    Revisit that white neutral cable and 2 black power leads, are those boat factory installed?
    The white cable lug looks a lil cruddy and house hold quality, the lower black lead looks like it has over heated.
    Can't get a good look at the second black lead with its correctly installed shrink protection.
    These and the white / green strap to the case may need at least a hit with a good crimp tool.

    If it was my project, I would re terminate these leads with fresh tinned ends crimped to clean cable.
  15. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    Quite a bit of heat can be seen on a number of these terminals.
  16. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    I did clean up the ends although I did not replace. There is certainly no slack in any of those lines to allow for a new crimp.

    Won't be able to test it this weekend, will have to wait till next.
  17. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    Still had the same issues this weekend.

    Ran the genny while we cruised to our location (hour or so run), dropped the hook and got settled in.

    Genny running fine and voltage good when we stopped . Within 1/2 hour genny voltage was 140-150. Air temp in engine room was over 130 degrees (i bought a remote temp sensor to see what engine room temps are). This was about 20 degrees more than while running and having the air flow.

    Turned everything off, waited 10-15 minutes, removed sound shield, restarted.

    Idle on genny was low, fooled around with actuator, sprayed some crc cleaner on arm and got it back to rpm.

    Genny ran all night, no soundshield, no over voltage.

    Could actuator be reacting to the heat?
  18. 55 Sea Ray R

    55 Sea Ray R Member

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    Did that fix it ? I have same genset. Mine was doing a similar thing and it turned out to be the speed control sensor. First guy installed one then 6 months later doing the same thing. He spliced the wire for a shortcut. Right on directions in big letters said do not splice wire. Anyway 3 years later still running like a champ.
  19. 92Searay-37'

    92Searay-37' New Member

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    I am not sure, being winterized and just recommissioned.

    I have replaced the governor actuator, governor controller and bridge rectifier. My model does not have a voltage regulator, it was an option. I just have the compound transformer.

    Are you referencing the magnetic sender screwed in behind the gen side flywheel? The sender is supposed to send a signal to actuator and that wire is not to be spliced as you referenced.

    I have not changed that - I will have to remove heat exchanger, exhaust elbow and a bunch of hoses. Then I'm not even sure I would be able to see down that hole to line that up with a "tooth" of that gear that it needs to be calibrated with.

    I hope that's not my problem......

    The engine is running great, I have it producing 120v at 60hz. I can load it with everything on, dryer, 3 ac's, micro, fridge...., the rpms don't even change when those cycle.

    The but in all of this its not tested in any high heat scenario yet.
  20. 55 Sea Ray R

    55 Sea Ray R Member

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    Hopefully you nailed it already. If not I would look at that possibility. Mine was doing exactly as you say yours is as I say hopefully you have nailed down the problem.