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bedding vs caulking

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by petrel, Apr 4, 2021.

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  1. petrel

    petrel Member

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    Prior to the current restoration efforts, my Viking did not have a noticeable caulk joint anywhere. There were two visible seams that I recall. One where the overhang meets the flybridge floor and one where the covering boards meet the hull. Both of those seams were bedded with something that required no maintenance.

    I recently checked on the boat at the yard. The yard had installed the new rub rail and pulled a caulk line from bow to stern on the top and bottom of the new rub rail. In essence giving me some 200' of new caulk that now will have to be maintained. The boat had no caulk on the old rub rail, it was bedded instead. They also caulked around the engine room vents, which was not done before as well.

    I have told the project manager that I want all of the caulk removed and a assurance that the rub rail and vents were bedded underneath, as the original was. I am awaiting their response. I also have a call into Viking service to get their opinion.

    Even if these items are properly bedded AND caulked, I do not want the caulking to maintain. What are your opinions?
  2. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Sounds like something that should have been discussed when the contract was given. Not sure who that's on. What's the paperwork say?
  3. petrel

    petrel Member

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    Just part of the reassembly. I did not know I had to tell them how to install it, when they removed the old one.
  4. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    The devil is in the details. I'm a firm believer in supervising any job. Different people do things different ways. I've seen caulking in those locations on many boats and some done better than others. Watched a home show today where a couple hired people to build a house basically over zoom. "Now how can that go wrong" I said to my wife.
  5. petrel

    petrel Member

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    Well there is no end to that. They are doing over $100k worth of work. So you are saying I should have specified all of the materials and procedures, then supervised the job personally, or are you saying that caulking is acceptable, even if it wasn't part of the original assembly?...or both?
  6. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I would leave the caulking provided it was bedded properly, which might be with the same caulking. Most builders these days will bed the rub rail with 5200 and smooth out the excess on either side of the rub rail which is probably what they did. It is a more waterproof solution than old school bedding.
  7. petrel

    petrel Member

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    If it is 5200, it is more acceptable than caulking. It would also cost a fortune to remove. I've never seen that much 5200 left exposed to the sunlight before. I read that it is supposed to last for 10 years, but I wonder how it will look after a few seasons.
  8. MBevins

    MBevins Senior Member

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    5200 is not designed to be used as a surface caulk. It needs to be compressed between two hard surfaces. So I doubt your looking at 5200
  9. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    This is where a captain comes in and for bigger boats a project manager. But for smaller boats yep, you're it. Murphy's law says that the one thing you don't nail down will be the thing that flies off the rails.
  10. CaboFly

    CaboFly Member

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    Can you post a pic? I red the caulk like around rub rail and bridge on my Cabo a few seasons ago. Perhaps the new rub rail did not fit as true as the previous OEM system.
  11. petrel

    petrel Member

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    They purchased the rub rail from Viking. Who knew they didn't know how to install it? I'll be curious if Viking will weigh in on it. I hope to get some photos next week.
  12. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Why is installing it with 5200 incorrect?????? That's how Viking installs them now and many other SF builders.
  13. petrel

    petrel Member

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    I am accepting your assertion that 5200 is acceptable. However, if it is 5200, it is a huge bead of it. As mbevins indicated, I did not think it is designed as a caulk for continuous exposure to the sun.

    I mentioned that it may be installed incorrectly, if they could not get it to conform to the hull, thus requiring this big bead of caulking.
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  14. AnotherKen

    AnotherKen Member

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    You could spray water over the boat and then see if the water is leaking inside. You can use red chalk to put lines along the edges if water crosses the line it will make a red streak so you will know where the water is leaking. If they installed things right then there should be no leaks. If they forgot to caulk it then you will find out and then you can caulk it.
  15. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    I think his objection is that there''s visible caulk.
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  16. AnotherKen

    AnotherKen Member

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    Oh you are right, I skimmed it a little to quick before responding. I was thinking people would ask for advice for functional difficulties rather than aesthetic ones.

    Well, as far as caulking goes, I'd be inclined to trust the workers who put it in since they would not likely put it there if it was unnecessary. You can paint over most caulking substances without damaging them. Or, you can just cover it with your own tiny fairing or something.
  17. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    The workers did it the right way. It's just that the OP wanted it done a different right way. I think he wanted to avoid painting. At this point it probably comes down to how much he doesn't want to paint or how important it is to the yard to see him smile. First thing to determine is whether it's 5200, 4400 or.... That'll determine the labor ($$$$) needed to remove it.
  18. petrel

    petrel Member

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    I spoke to a representative from Viking today. Their prescribed method of installation is bedding compound between the rub rail and the hull, then a bead of caulk top and bottom. They acknowledged that the older models, like mine, were bedded only.

    They advised against 5200 for bedding because it makes the rub rail difficult to service. With this info. I have asked the yard to leave the caulking. I still don't like it, but it is what Viking is doing now, so that is good enough for me.
  19. NYCAP123

    NYCAP123 Senior Member

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    Kind of wondered about using 5200. Next person trying to replace any of the rub rail would be cursing you.
  20. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

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    How often do you replace the rubrail? The rubrail on my boat is 51 years old and has never been removed

    well except the section lost during Irma :)