2003 Carver 366 Aft Stair Rail

Pics would be really helpful.

That looks like built in obsolescence. An awful lot of stress for 2 little screws attacked to fiberglass to handle. I'd love to see a backing plate under the fiberglass, but I doubt there is one. It'd be nice to weld that split in the rail, but it would have to be removed first because the heat from welding would go to the fiberglass. So I'd recommend pulling it back in shape with screw clamps aided by a vise grip and sealing it with JB Weld. You can get that at Lowe's or HD. Pull the screws, fill the holes with caulk, insert anchors and new screws. Where it attaches to the upper rail there should be an elbow with a set screw or Alan screw. I assume you'll find an empty hole there. Look at another junction to learn what to replace it with. When you put in the screw use Loctite on the threads.

I'd love to see a rail more like the one on the other side which is a handhold putting the pressure straight out, rather than what you have which is likely to be leaned against pushing the screws sideways, but I guess that wouldn't look as pretty. Good luck.

Get yourself a drill and tap kit from Home Depot drill and tap the original set screw on the upper portion of the rail. Reset the setscrew. You’ll have to go to the next size up on the setscrew Home Depot has stainless steel set screws most likely if not the marine supply will have them.

halfway around from the original set screw that you just fasten drill and tap another set screw in and tighten that down with a new setscrew.

On the base fill in the holes with Marine Tex or west system re-drill two new holes then drill and countersink two new holes in the base , going the other way and set two new screws or through bolts which are better with heavy fender washers and crank it down make sure you put 5200 under the base to keep the water out and seal it up.
Can you dig it ?!

Oh Boy.................... my Iphone won’t let me add any more dots...
3M 5200 marine sealant or any other marine sealant other than 100% silicone.
That Sealant will also aid in helping hold things together it’s strong stuff.

I suspect the upper set screw simply shook lose from vibration at the other end. So I doubt he needs to drill and tap (lots of fun with small curved pieces of 316 stainless), and I can't say I've ever seen stainless rails secured with 2 set screws. Yes, Marine Tex or even 5200 would make good caulking for the lower screws. To use bolts and fender washers or even a backer plate (which would be wonderful) would entail opening up the back wall of the stateroom. Wasn't considered necessary with the original installation (and yes we know how well that worked out), but not sure it'd be worth the work involved.

This rail takes a lot of abuse. Two set screws , The more the merrier and stronger , on top of that get some red Loctite and squirt that on the set screw then crank it down...

5200:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...ive-Sealant-5200/?N=5002385+3293241623&rt=rud

Yes with the Locktite, but I still think the 2nd set screw up top is unnecessary and will be above his skill set. 316 doesn't drill easily, and for him to do it cleanly would probably involve removing the rail and elbow and clamping them to a drill press. Once the lower end is secured and reducing vibration he should have no problem, especially with the Locktite.

Now I’m really thinking.
Get yourself a pop rivet gun and a 316 rivet or two , slow speed, drill and rivet the upper connection and be done with it all together....
You can get the rivets for marine use from a good marine supplier get the pop rivet gun from Home Depot.
**** I’m good ...at times.
It helps when you keep it simple stupid.
Which we all forget about from time to time.
FYI, it’s easy switch your cordless drill to number two slow speed setting so you don’t burn out the drill bit and take your time get a good bit high speed black bit. don’t buy the high price junk get a Dewalt or Vermont American and you’ll be fine....drill away with firm pressure.

Hopefully my last comment ; on the bottom connection.
Are they loose through bolts or are they loose screws that’s a huge difference....
You will have to determine that on your own.
It makes a difference on how you’re going to secure it properly.

The pop rivets are a great idea for connecting the rails IF they match the rest of the rail. Btw, because the OP s new here let me mention that I believe Cleanslate is referring to military acronym K.I.S.S., not calling the OP stupid. And yes IF those are bolts at the lower end stick with bolts (which will involve opening the back wall), but screws were specified in post #1.

Nope, it's what I thought. I'm hoping that if they are wood screws they're actually going into wood, but either way fill the hole with 5200, put in an anchor (both of those things will seal against moisture and give grab to the anchor. Very good possibility that the original screws were put in without caulk, a big no-no as moisture will follow the threads in and rot the wood.

Be well and safe boating.