1989 43 Covering Board and Rub Rail Replacement

I started a project to remove and replace the covering boards about a month ago. I have a few pictures of the rip-out process to share today and will update as progress and time allows. Old boards were WAY overdue for replacement. Post used two separate boards alongside each other for port, starboard and transom. Each had a very visible seam and was screwed and glued ...adding teak plugs to hide the screw heads. The new install will have no screws. we are using 2:1 FGCI Epoxy to glue the boards down.

Some of the old wood came off fairly easy and other portions were a bit more stubborn. It started out as a covering board only project. I decided to rip the rub rail off around the cockpit area after realizing that I wouldn't be satisfied with old rub rail next to pretty new covering boards. (Like pulling the string on a sweater!) So the final step will be a haul-out for removal of remaining rub rail and installation of new.

tear out begins - They used a rubbery red glue/caulk that was less tenacious than 5200 back in 1989.



Rub Rail comes off - Pretty easy except across transom - 5200 used across transom and Dolphinite used everywhere else



Lotsa tired old Teak and rub rail!



Rip out complete - Time to clean, fill holes and sand everything flat




I am addressing the mess underneath the gunwales as well. Cutting a few areas of soft wood and fitting new pieces, filling all old rod holder holes. Many of you know that the wood underneath the fiberglass in this area on this vintage boat (1989) is unprotected and gets "furry" over the years. Once all repairs are complete under there, I am going to template and cut 1/4" Coosa board to epoxy in place over the exposed wood. The Coosa will be primed and painted to finish it off and fix that issue for a good long while!

Stay tuned for more!!

Interestingly, I primed and painted every inch of varnished teak on the boat after years of varnish work (and a full time job... Those two don't mix!) I loved the look of varnish but finally gave up due to time constraints. I absolutely love the look and feel of unfinished (No oil or varnish) teak covering boards and decks. I did not consider synthetic for that reason. Just preference.

Another quick update...

Templated to the existing fiberglass and determined that making the transom board in one piece from the port quarter to the starboard quarter would be the best way to ensure the grain matches perfectly at the transom door hatch cover. Picked out a new hinge and cut out the old Aluminum backing plate that the hinge was threaded into. replaced it with a stainless backing plate so dissimilar metal corrosion isn't an issue in the future. machine screws for hinge were seized and all but one broke trying to remove them. Transom board will be cut at the transom door hatch once glued down and trimmed to size.



Picked out boards at World Panel in West Palm Beach (Great to deal with!). Due to a limited choice of wide boards that were long enough and high cost of lumber that wide, decided to join 2 narrower boards for each length of covering board. Took time to choose color and grain that would match well and help to make the seam disappear when glued up. Used a joiner, table saw and drum sander to be sure the boards were true...both faces and edges



two boards that will be glued up to form transom board



One last note - I used 4/4 teak for the project. I had to notch where the wing meets the covering board, the new boards after sanding and prep were nearly 1".... Which is thicker than the original boards.



More to come!

The coaming boards beneath the covering board have been painted since removing the coaming pad. They were all in good shape but will be reprimed and painted as the last step of the project. They were all sanded flat so they matched the horizontal fiberglass surface of the gunwale that the covering boards will be glued to. The covering boards were cut so there is 1/2" of overhang on the inside (Cockpit side) C Team - All wood issues were addressed, repairs completed and everything sealed up before gluing down the 1st piece of teak... agree, this is a must. The only real issues were caused by water that got into the wood under the gunwales around the rod holders.

Fit, glued and clamped the port side board.





Notice the block at the forward edge of the last board, that was screwed into the hull/deck joint to act as a clamp to push the teak board against the side of the house. we also used the fuel fill hole for 2 clamps as you can see. Thickened the epoxy with cabosil. be prepared to clean oozing epoxy for an hour after tightening all of the clamps. get it all before it hardens as it will be VERY hard to remove once it cures. Be extra careful to keep the miter where the transom board will meet this board clean of all epoxy to ensure the miter will be a tight fit when the time comes to glue it up.

More to come!

NYCAP - just a 1/4" roundover on the inside and outside top edges and easing the bottom of the board on the cockpit side with sandpaper to knock off the sharp edge. I like a bit of overhang on the cockpit side, I live near Merritt Boatworks in Pompano and went to look at a few boats over there. Kind of a classic look with the coaming board set back a bit. If it is good enough for a Merritt I figure it'll do on my old Post! Just preference I guess. Dockmaster - The screw didn't go into the hull side... It just went into one of the existing holes where the rub rail was previously screwed to the hull deck joint. The forward edge ends as pictured with a 3/8" radius roundover on the top/forward edge.

We talked about keeping varnish on the forward edge end grain. I know that area gets plenty of water flowing down the sides of the house and is a likely place for the boards to start cracking down the road... Thanks for the heads up, will put some more thought into that. NYCAP - Wood - Both the coaming boards and the covering boards are wood. The covering boards overhang the coaming boards by about 1/2". Look at some pics of a Merritt cockpit online. I mimicked that look. we always try to be careful but it could take a wack or two over the years. (and probably will!) Fun project... I will add more when I can.