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Hull Side Drip Guards

Discussion in 'Luhrs Yacht' started by KevinMC, Feb 12, 2020.

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  1. KevinMC

    KevinMC New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2009
    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Kent Island, Md
    I wanted to share this little trick for the Luhrs owners. Just about every Luhrs that I see has the same issue with water drainage from the deck, flowing down the hull sides via the drainage cutouts in the deck. This leaves a dirty vertical line on the hull when the water dries.

    Used to drive me nuts every weekend cleaning the dirty hull sides in the slip with a long brush pole. The following solution worked for me, and may save you some cleanup time.

    1. Purchase a small amount of 40 gauge polished Isinglass (example: Ebay $10)

    2. Cutout the Isinglass in the shapes as shown in the picture below. These are plastic templates that I cut after measuring on my boat. They're generally about 3" wide and 13.5" to 15" long, with fronts longer than rears. Depends on your boat so measure first.

    IMG_0387-small.jpg

    3. Line up the screw holes on the hull and drill Isinglass holes to match. Remove the screws and place the Isinglass behind the stainless steel band and tighten screws. (Easier to do, when boat is out of water, but can be done very carefully in the slip ).

    4). When screws are re-tightened, this will set the Isinglass at a nice outward angle and prevent the water from running down the hull sides. Instead it drips off the Isinglass directly into the water. I get 2-3 seasons on them before renewing with another set.

    Here's how they look on the boat (winterized now) - end result, no more dirty line on the hull to clean.

    IMG_1926 (003).jpg

    Hope this helps you!

    Kevin
  2. Rscriv

    Rscriv New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2020
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    31
    Location:
    Stony Brook NY
    Nice trick, TY
  3. Rich Plukas

    Rich Plukas New Member

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    Feb 10, 2020
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    28
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    Great idea, definitely a recurring issue.
  4. dewald

    dewald Member

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    Jun 27, 2017
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    Location:
    Treasure Island, Florida
  5. KevinMC

    KevinMC New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2009
    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Kent Island, Md
    Thanks for that link, I didn't know a product like this existed - It looks like it works well. Actually I had thought about trying to fabricate something using a harder plastic, but still prefer the flexible isinglass for the following reason. When my boat is pulled for yard maintenance, it just so happens that the Marine Travel-lift lifting strap placement is directly over the same area. The 40 gauge isinglass just bends under the straps with minimal damage. I fear that a harder plastic would be more prone to damage in that situation. Of course if your lifting strap area is not in the same area, then this is not a concern. Thanks again!
  6. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2019
    Messages:
    1,579
    Location:
    Vero Beach
    When I rebuilt my Hatt 53c, I replaced the stainless rub rail throughout. As I installed it, bedded it not place, I drilled and set a length of 1.5" 316SS flat stock (perhaps it was 1.25mm thick in long lengths) between the new rail and the hull so that it extended about 5/16" below the bottom of the stainless rail. This created a permanent drip edge that kept runoff from streaking the hull, and it wasn't unsightly or an ongoing maintenance issue.
  7. rtrafford

    rtrafford Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2019
    Messages:
    1,579
    Location:
    Vero Beach
    The 316ss flat stock was more or less in a roll, like a very stiff tape. I just rolled it out, cut it to length, stopped it just short of the transom, but it caught the majority of the water that shed from the decks and prevented it from running down the hull. No one ever saw it, noticed it, or commented on it. In fact I'd forgotten about it altogether until I read this thread. Zoom on the photo, taken several years later during a repaint.

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