Click for Ocean Alexander Click for Cross Click for Walker Click for Nordhavn Click for Mulder

Anchoring Bridles

Discussion in 'General Yachting Discussion' started by Dave Stranks, May 22, 2014.

You need to be registered and signed in to view this content.
  1. Dave Stranks

    Dave Stranks Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2008
    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Coal Harbor Vancouver
    Any advice on a bridal for a 90 footer semi planning hull with a lot of windage. I have hooked up small 3/8 inch snap stainless one only to have it peel back like a banana in a moderate wind . Any premade easy to use hardware you can suggest and or setups. Pictures help. One thing I worry about is that it has to be a easy disconnect and have to be quick; having to release something on the chain in a pounding rain in the middle of the night with 40 knot wind is never high on my list.
  2. sunchaserv

    sunchaserv Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2011
    Messages:
    140
    Location:
    Carefree, AZ
    Dave

    Why do you need an anchor bridle? On larger yachts in the 100+ ton range I'm familiar with the anchor system, chain stops, capstan, decking, etc are designed to take the anchor loads. What says your vessel's builder?
  3. Pascal

    Pascal Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2008
    Messages:
    8,120
    Location:
    Miami, FL
    I run a 70 footer with skylinge which has pretty high windage. With winds under 15kts I don't use a bridle but increase scope so th catenary helps absorb any shock

    Over 15kts, or if we have guest in the bow stateroom, I use a bridle to eliminTe the noise of the chain knocking on the sides of the chute. Since I m a cheapo, it s just a couple of triple strand dock line attached to a chain hook with a big shackle....

    May not be fancy but It works.
  4. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2009
    Messages:
    1,175
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    I do the same as Pascal on my 70, bridal not really necessary except for comfort in the fwd s/r
  5. Capt Bill11

    Capt Bill11 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2006
    Messages:
    1,458
    Location:
    Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale FL
    Capstans and windlasses are not really designed to take the loads of anchoring. And while chain stops may be capable of it if installed correctly, they do nothing to absorb the shock loads of the vessel coming tight on its chain in a blow. Plus as Pascal mentions a bridle or snubber can make for a much quieter night at anchor for any one sleeping forward.

    I use them as a matter of course when anchoring. It only takes a minute or two to set one up , whether it's a true bridle or just a single line snubber, and that way if it blows up at night your set.
  6. Caltexflanc

    Caltexflanc Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2011
    Messages:
    244
    Location:
    North Carolina
    I'm with Bill. They are also a much better thing to use to break out an especially stuck anchor, taking strain off the pulpit and roller as well as the windlass system.
  7. Dave Stranks

    Dave Stranks Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2008
    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Coal Harbor Vancouver
    Mc Queen build on a West Port Hull ex owner used to put a 2 " rubber hose around the chain in the anchor trough to stop noise as it swung It eats them up pretty good
    I'm really trying to stop the snapping of the chain in the rollers also to take any strain off the chain stop. We also spend allot of time up top. If the boat stays into the wind without the swing it give the people outside a dead wind zone behind the pilot house
    There have been a couple of great suggestions in this post .
  8. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2009
    Messages:
    1,175
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    Just be careful you don't hold the chain too close to the stem with a bridle, can really mess up the finish on the bow and the shear. Good luck with your solution, it is always a compromise. some yachties just stay on the dock to avoid the problem..I am sure ymmv
  9. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2004
    Messages:
    12,649
    Location:
    Satsuma, FL
    I have been requested to make some snubbers for some of our customers.
    I have found the Mantus chain hook the best to use.
    Using twisted dock lines ( 3/4 & 1" ) Splices in a simple Y 5 feet from the stem. A couple more feet to a thimble & spinning shackle, then the hook. Use rubber chafe protection thru the chocks / hawse-pipes. On a larger SeaRay needed the chafe gear to protect the boat, from poorly placed cleats (brain damaged boat designers).
  10. Dave Stranks

    Dave Stranks Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2008
    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Coal Harbor Vancouver
    Mantus chain hook I like it
    I'm going to order
  11. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2004
    Messages:
    12,649
    Location:
    Satsuma, FL
    I did not like their pre made system. Get the hook and make your own Y.

    PM me if you need more details.

    ,rc
  12. Dave Stranks

    Dave Stranks Member

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2008
    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Coal Harbor Vancouver
    I agree i'll make up the rope part
    Thanks
  13. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    14,432
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    I do the same but use double braid, (hey it looks nicer), and I tie it off to the 1st spring line cleat just aft of the bow cleat, which keeps the boat at a slight angle so it doesn't swing as much and the current has a little more effect on the direction than the wind.
  14. mapism

    mapism Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2008
    Messages:
    2,111
    Location:
    Sardinia
    Do you mean that you're using a single line? Because if so, I can't figure why it should reduce the swinging.
    I mean, however smaller it might be on one side, isn't it equally larger on the opposite side?
    Fwiw, I've always used two lines for that reason, which (unless I misunderstood them) is what also rcrapps and Pascal suggested.
  15. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    14,432
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Because when you tie it not to the bow cleat, but your first cleat back it keeps the boat at an angle of maybe 20-30 degrees to the anchor and the additional drag of the current running over the angled hull, makes the wind do less of a thing, plus your breeze is better on the Fb and such.
  16. mapism

    mapism Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2008
    Messages:
    2,111
    Location:
    Sardinia
    Interesting. Actually I'm not so used to consider current, because in most of my usual anchorage spots it's not so relevant. But worth a try anyway.
    20-30 degrees seems a LOT, though. How far are your first cleats from the bow?
    In my boat, they are (the hawse-pipes actually, but that's what drives the geometry, rather than the cleat itself) roughly 4 feet back from the bow, and 3 feet from the centreline.
    And after them, the next are alongside, on the walkarounds, too far to use them for bridles, I think....
  17. Delfin

    Delfin Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2014
    Messages:
    52
    Location:
    Anacortes, WA
    We weigh around 65 tons, and use a snubber whenever we anchor. Quieter, and it moves the load from the windlass where it doesn't belong to a strong point cleat designed to handle the load.

    After years of using chain hooks, we switched to a 3/8" Plasma soft shackle which is a lot stronger than any hook, and doesn't beat up the paint. For light conditions, we use 5/8" 3 strand, 30' long. If we think it might blow, we shift to 3/4" octoplait joined to 1/2" Dyneema that is only long enough to run over the roller before the octoplait picks up the load. Ideally, you want stretch to be induced in the snubber since that significantly reduces the load on the chain. Our snubber will hit maximum stretch before failure just below the breaking strength of the chain, so we lay out an overhang of chain after the snubber is taut of a length equal to the desired maximum stretch of the snubber.

    Probably all overkill, but why not.
  18. JWY

    JWY Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2004
    Messages:
    1,507
    Location:
    Ft. Lauderdale
    Welcome aboard, Delfin!

    With your wealth of knowledge and proven by your outstanding yacht, I look forward to reading more of your valuable contributions. Thanks for participating!

    Judy
  19. dennismc

    dennismc Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2009
    Messages:
    1,175
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    On larger vessels say, 50 tons and upwards, why would the windlass not be able to take the strain of the rode being secured to the windlass via snubber line or other satisfactory method ?, would that not be more secure than a deck cleat ?