Hi all, Have been looking at other SF's but a nice Viking popped up that I'm going to go have a look at. Would appreciate suggestions as to problem spots that I should definitely look at while I'm there. This is just a first look but I'd like to make the best of it. If it goes well then we'd do another more detailed inspection and a survey if we decide to buy. With the DD 6V92's, what would be expected cruise and fuel burn? Thanks in advance! Bart
Just a question; Are these the 6V92TIAs? Some higher (620?) HP, DDEC controlled engines? We do need the HP or or better model number (TI, TA or TIA) to offer the closer burn numbers. The safer 6V92s started way below 300 total HP. 75HP per lung was still considered safe. 80 to 90HP per lung was high performance (short life). Over 90 and beyond 100HP per lung is insane (No Life). Give us the tune data, we can answer your question better.
Still a press on long life. If it has the straight log exhaust manifolds, then I'll call it the 550HP. Here is a pirated copy of the DDC cut sheet. You want to look at the prop loaded RPM / GPH figures.
I luv Vikings. I luv Detroits. High performance Detroits (92s) can stretch patience and checkbooks if your not ready. There is no fuel economy in a Viking 45C. No matter what engine. Shopping for a Detroit boat with 92s; #1 Is there a good Detroit tech or shop close by that can work on your engines? The better Detroit techs are dying off of old age. Your old DDC tech will spill blood in your bilges. Find him and become best friends now. Don't feel pregnant;; I tell MAN shoppers to find a good shop also. Better MAN techs are also hard to find in some areas. #2 No stone un-turned surveys. Every lung inspected. A side cover plate is available for each lung. Some are hard to get to and will cost more for the surveyor,, but worth it. Looking for a nice hatch pattern to prove not over fueled or abused. When you find that old DDC tech, go over this before the survey. #3 1500 hours each from what? Top end? Complete including liners? Out of the boat or in frame? Dyno'd? Or just an aerosol overhaul? Without receipts, it did not happen properly. Oil lab history? Really helpful on a 92. Ensures no coolant in the oil. #4 Find the factory specs. Prop size and performance numbers. So many repaired props loose diameter and performance. During your survey and sea trials, ensure all is close to factory specs (or better?). IMO 71s take up more room but are more forgiving. Dry liners are more forgiving abet less bang per lung. Is there a 45C with 71s around? Then, while the engine tech is checking out the engines, The other surveyor is going thru the boat. Better surveys may take 2 days per surveyor. That is a lot of boat to check, Don't rush them.
Please search and read the many Detroit threads here on YF. Tomorrow, I'm hoping more Viking kids will tap in on your thread here.
Thanks for the info Ralph. I've been reading about the engines and keeping a list of what I'm learning but it won't really click until I've got twins of my own and can start wrenching on them. I've been putting off asking around for a DD tech in our area because we haven't been close to buying a boat yet even though I've been looking. If there's someone in NJ that you know of, I'd be happy to look them up. 1500 hrs each since new, never overhauled but well maintained recently from what I can tell.
1500 hours on a 33 year old boat? Never overhauled? The cylinder liner O rings can't last that long on a shelf, half that time in the engine just sitting there. This is getting scary.
One of your considerations needs to be DDEC portion of those engines. You can likely find parts and someone to work on the mechanical side of the engines without too much trouble. But finding someone that can troubleshoot and repair the Electronic Controls can be a whole separate adventure. Parts for DDEC are no longer made so when you need something it’s EBay or sending the component to Sturdy (OEM builder of the DDEC system) and hoping they can repair or rebuild it. I wouldn’t call it a show stopper but make sure you go in with eyes wide open. What about other systems? gennie, steering, hvac, etc? Those can be expensive if major repairs or replacement required.
Please re-read what you have typed. 33 year old 92 engine. 1500 hours, never rebuilt. I'm no expert either, only been working on them my whole life.
Ralph, I understand it's not ideal but this is the fleet we've got which is why I'm asking. As I understand it, if the engines have been run each year and have been maintained, then 1500 hrs isn't super high and the engines could very well be reliable. Haven't seen the boat yet, trying to get there in the next week or so. Thanks for the heads on the DDEC, I've been trying to wrap my head around the situation with the engines being what is it regardless of which SF we end up with since we keep finding them with 6V92's.
On another potential candidate, 1997 6V92's @ 550 hp with about 800 hrs each total, never overhauled but have been sitting for three years without plugs in the exhaust stacks. Let's say it was running fine before it was parked, what's the potential for problems being found upon inspection and before being launched?
Rusted exhaust valve seats and valve stems. Possibly even a stuck exhaust valve. It may start up but that rust on the seats may turn to hot spots and burn up the valves. Been there.
Would you have the internet addresses for these boats your looking at? Some of us may even know the boat your looking at. ie; https://www.**************/yacht/1988-viking-45-convertible-8690602/
Thanks for the reply CA Ralph. Is that something that can be found before launch or will we have to run it to let the problem bubble up itself? If the valve stems are rusted then the heads have to come off, no?
I don't think the Viking is listed outside of facebook and the '97 is a Post 47 in Chicago. I'm not the first to bring it up here.
Here is where an ole DDC tech shines. Pull some side covers off now and with a bore scope, look up to the valves and take a peek. Then hand bar the engine over to examine the other lungs. Baring over by hand also helps eliminate a stuck valve slamming against and damaging a piston top. A proper valve and seat repair does involve pulling the heads.