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Mercruiser 8.1 Guardian mode

Discussion in 'Engines' started by meadengr, Jul 10, 2022.

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  1. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Hello everyone,
    New to the forum.
    I have twin 8.1 Mercruiser V-drive, closed cooling inboards in a 2008 Searay 340 Sundancer. Boating is in saltwater.
    The STBD engine after warm up goes into Guardian mode when throttled above idle speed. The readout on the Smartcraft is overheat condition, check water inlet, check sea water pump. Also the continuous alarm sounds sometimes an hour after the engine is shut down, very strange!
    I changed the Seawater pump and impeller, the temp sensor, and thermostat.
    All suggestions appreciated and thanks in advance.
  2. f3504x4ps

    f3504x4ps Member

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    Welcome. Have you checked the hoses and manifolds with an IR temperature gun to see if you are overheating? Verify temp between both engines. Have you back flushed the raw water system to verify waterflow? Could also have a plugged heat exchanger, when was the last time it was checked and cleaned.
  3. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Thanks so much for the response and I should have included additional troubleshooting information.
    Yes, I checked temps all over the engine with a thermo gun and all is normal as compared to the Port engine.
    I did recently check the heat exchanger and all is good. I did not backfluch the system being that all the temps are in order. The gauge also reads 170 for temp.
  4. f3504x4ps

    f3504x4ps Member

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    I would swap temp sensors between engines and see if the alarm follows the sensor. Could also be a bad computor. Swap that if the engine still alarms with known good sensor from other engine. At this point you need to eliminate components. Is this boat new to you or have you owned it for more then 3 seasons. Looking to see if this just started or ic mew boat to you.
  5. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    14 year old Merc with original risers??
    Uh Ah..
  6. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Yes I'm going to swap the water pressure sensors that I think are mounted on the seawater pump. The boat is a 2008 but I have owned it for only 3.5 years.
    Thanks again for staying with me!
    No, the risers are not original but were replaced 4 years ago. I flush the boat every time I run it.
  7. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I think you have pressed tubing vs cast iron exhaust risers. Like the old Gill set up.
    To humor me, there is a raw water dump hose going into the riser, here the raw water passes thru the shower head and mixes with the exhaust gasses.
    When warm to hot, Please shoot that hose, the riser before the exhaust hose connect and the rubber exhaust hose about 6 inches past the hose clamps holding the exhaust hose to the riser.
    For giggles, another IR shot of the exhaust hose further away about 12 to 18 inches.

    With your hand on the hose after the raw water pump and before the heat sexchanger, rev the engine up a bit quickly. Your trying to feel if the hose is trying to move or expand.

    These are the actions a good swamp mechanic would go thru before moving any parts.

    Next question; you operate in silt or shallow water?
  8. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Thankyou for the response!
    I tested all thr hoses, bolts, clamps on the engines, basically went nuts with the temp gun!
    We operate the boat in salt water, the lowest depth being 8' but water is pretty clean.
    Great suggestion feeling the hoses as we ramp up speed. I will try that this Thursday.
    Last night I took the end caps off of the heat exchanger and cleaned the tubes with pressurized water, compressed air and a coat hanger. From what I could see, they were not that clogged.
    I also pulled off one exhaust elbow and it looked good.
  9. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    No the risers are not new, they were replaced about 4 years ago by the previous owner.
    The boat is a 2008 model.
    Thanks for your response.
  10. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Great suggestion on. the heat exchanger, I did open it up last night, shot it with pressurized water and air. Ran a coat hanger through each tube and it seemed clean.
  11. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    After trying many troubleshooting tips, I am Still at ground zero. One new discovery is the smartcraft system on the troubled engine shows 9.9 volts when shut down and every other gauge including the batteries shows 13.2 volts.
    The troubled engine consistently goes into guardian mode indicating overheat as the problem but nothing is hot. The alarm will even go off two hours after the engine is shutdown?
    Any help is really appreciated.
  12. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Tried your suggestions and temps are good on everything that should be warm.
    After trying many troubleshooting tips, I am Still at ground zero. One new discovery is the smartcraft system on the troubled engine shows 9.9 volts when shut down and every other gauge including the batteries shows 13.2 volts.
    The troubled engine consistently goes into guardian mode indicating overheat as the problem but nothing is hot. The alarm will even go off two hours after the engine is shutdown?
    Any help is really appreciated.
  13. DOCKMASTER

    DOCKMASTER Senior Member

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    Did you swap the temp sensors from side to side as suggested earlier? That 9.9v reading is a concern. Perhaps a bad ground, lose wire or corrosion in a connection somewhere? 9.9v is right about the lower limit of where 12v electronics start to shut down or have issues from low voltage.
    Capt Ralph likes this.
  14. f3504x4ps

    f3504x4ps Member

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    As Dockmaster stated, you need to track down the low voltage issue first as it will have issues with the computer/electronics. After verifying good grounds and no corrosion on wires or terminals. Verify the alternator is putting out 12.5 - 14.5 volts, could have a bad alternator, also have the battery charged and lost test the battery. Only way to test the alternator is with a load tester on the boat or you have to remove the alternator. You can also verify with a volt meter and jumper the voltage regulator but you will need to know how to do that or you will burn up the alternator and then have to replace. Sounds like you need to have your mechanic check the electrical / charging system. Once that is resolve you may have resolved the overheat alarm.
    Capt Ralph likes this.
  15. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Thankyou for the reply,
    I actually just changed the alternator two days ago because it seized up. New alternator indicates on the smartcraft 14 volts of charging when running. The batteries are fully charged as well. Still checking electrical connections and reading wiring diagrams.
    I do have a mechanic who will plug in the diagnostic terminal and praying this shows something.
    Almost ready to swap the control module?
  16. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    Yes I did swap the sensors with no change. Yes the low voltage is a big concern being that my batteries read 13.4 volts.
  17. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    I changed the alternator again and that fixed the voltage problem. Back up to 12.5v on the helm gage.
    Changed the seawater pump again and no change, the alarm Still sounds when warm and put in gear.
    Any suggestions really appreciated.
  18. meadengr

    meadengr New Member

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    I changed the alternator again and that fixed the voltage problem. Back up to 12.5v on the helm gage.
    Changed the seawater pump again and no change, the alarm Still sounds when warm and put in gear.
    Any suggestions really appreciated.
  19. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Has a tech plugged in yet?
  20. Fishtigua

    Fishtigua Senior Member

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    As many forum members know, I worked with Mercs and Volvos for many years. I will no longer touch any inboard Gas engines, just not worth the trouble. The EPA have strangled them so far that Volvo and Merc are just fazing them out. I've lost all interest in old Tech.
    Capt Ralph likes this.