Taking a 1986 Hatteras, twin diesels, from fresh water to salt water. It has always been a freshwater boat and will now be staying in Florida GC. Can someone tell me in detail what I need to do in order to make this transision? Thanks!
Move it there. Change to aluminum or zinc anodes afterwards. Can't think of anything else immediately... -Chris
salt water zincs, washing more often. Things that are required. You will also need the work from a diver to keep an eye on your bottom and clean it every 4 to 6 weeks. Your diver will also let you know if the bottom paint is holding up to salt water. Some do, Some do not. Fresh water flush is optional. It's the same engine fresh or salt and just needs the salt water zincs.
You mean for heads? Optional. Or for engines/genset? Optional. And wouldn't have to be much of an "installed system" anyway; more of an occasional or periodic procedure. -Chris
Thanks Capt Ralph! Besides anode maintenance what other annual maintence will I need to do going from fresh to salt?
Re-read post #4. Stuff is going to wear in fresh or salt water. Stuff is going to break in fresh or salt water. Stuff is going to require maintenance in fresh or salt water. I assume you waxed every year in fresh water, pending where you moor, maybe twice a year. Is there something in particular your trying to ask about?
Do you reccomend pulling the boat out of water annually for maintenance....anodes, bottom paint, etc...
Depending on the bottom paint you have on now, how often your diver cleans your bottom, how fast/slow your zincs erode, your props don't hit anything and other wear conditions: you pull when you have to (IMO). Examples: My first boat was a wood Chris's mored near shallow marsh. Every year she came up for worm control maintenance. Our current boat came out every 3 years, now pushing 4+. The rewards of a diver for sure helps us.
Well I did - in fact, I made all raw-water cooled parts flush-able, in my own boat: engines, genset, chiller, shafts seals. But that's something nice to have for any salt water boat, regardless of whether previously used in fresh water or not. And there's a difference between useful and necessary, anyway. I mean, of course pumps/heat exchangers/whatever are less exposed to corrosion when left filled with fresh rather than salt water, but they are actually designed for salt water, anyway. In fact, only a tiny minority of salt water boats are equipped with any fresh water flushing systems. And even less owners bother to actually flush them... If what you are interested in is what you NEED to do, as you asked in your OP, look no further than CR list in his post #4. The only comment I would add to it is that cleaning the bottom every 4 to 6 weeks might be unnecessary, depending mostly on how effective the antifoul is (both on the hull and u/w gear), and on how aggressive the growth is in your marina. I'm lucky enough to only need one bottom cleaning each summer, but YMMV. And there's only one way to know: bring the boat to her new home, and see what happens!