You could get your hand on the valve with considerable difficulty. What you COULDN'T do was replace the fuel gauge sender. When I had the new tank fabricated, I moved the sender location to directly under the fighting chair pedestal mount. (fancy pie plate!) Finished the cut out today. Shut off is now on my newly fabricated crossover manifold. Yes, I still have tons of crappy wiring to pull out
I thought the shut off had to be the first fitting out of the tank. My aft tank is like yours, the valve is accessable from the Starboard deck hatch cover but you practically need to climb down into the bilge to reach it, unless your are triple jointed. I had to cut my deck to replace my sender as well.
Thought of you only after the time to edit had expired Mr. Crapps! Anyway, temporary supports and cover installed....going striper fishing tomorrow.
Out it comes! Surprisingly there were no supports under the tank, only a couple rubber strips that didn't appear to be doing anything. Nice mess eh?
Yeah, it's a mess for sure. I'd try to raise the tank a little if it's not already several inches above bilge water.
You find any diamond rings amongst the junk? May I suggest a light stainless steel chain threaded through the limber holes so you can keep them free from blockage. Those in my Huckins were well blocked with stuff when I first removed the fuel and water tanks. possibly the first time the tanks were removed since her build.
The fuel tanks in this boat are actually isolated from the bilge. Under normal circumstances water should not be under the tanks, although in mine, they put the lazarette hatch in such a position that it could leak into the confinement area. Part of this project will be to put hatches in the aft corners of the cockpit where I have seen the in other 42s. In this picture of the cleaned area, you can see the tube down the center that carried bilge water fore and aft under the tank compartment.
Bob: I was told that the rubber strips were for vibration against the hull and the tank. I put mine back in when I did my tanks. Shawn
I saw today evidence the tank was resting on the center tube.(rubbed flat) I think I'll put 5/8" pressure treated deck boards to give a level surface for the tank. The tank builder supplied neoprene strips to be glued on the bottom. Got the water tanks out today and closed up for a couple days rain.
Bob I am not an expert on this but I was told to never use pressure treated wood against aluminum tanks for corrosion purposes.
Yup....dummy previous owner plumbed with rigid pipe. Broke most of the connections. Going with 2 tanks 40 gal each which should open up some space for my fat butt to crawl in between the tank and exhaust. Oh if anybody as some pictures of a 42 cockpit, I need to see where the lazerette hatches are supposed to be.
My plastic tanks failed years ago. I did not want to tear up the deck and could not find replacements of the right dimensions at that time. I went with 2 - 40 gallon bladder tanks which is half the water supply I had with the plastic tanks. That is an easy fix if your in a jam but 80 gallons isn't much water and I really can't go more than a 3 day weekend without running out.
Bob: I can take a couple of pics of my cockpit if you want, I have the 3d hatch between the standard. Are you going to re-use the plastic tanks? Shawn
Bob: I might be interested in the water tanks if you are going throw them out. I will take some pics when the sun comes out of the cockpit. Shawn