My first Post. So I am looking at buying a used boat.

Unfortunately your background wouldn't qualify you to be much more than a yard man, and on weekends, most mechanics, etc. are off. So you'll just be keeping things clean, and maybe pumping some gas. I wouldn't waste time trying to get an apprenticeship. It does however qualify you to be a boater. Once you get your boat you'll get plenty of hands on training as well as getting to look over the shoulder of anyone working on the boat.
I wouldn't bother with taking mechanic's courses. You're not going to be pulling any motors apart. These are really designed for guys entering or in the profession. By the time you use most of the knowledge you gain it'll be mostly obsolete. You probably already know how to change oil ad filters, maybe change a water pump impeller or a thermostat or hose. Most other things you'll learn as you go.

So don't try to get over-educated on stuff you'll probably never mess with. For instance I know how to fix most if not all problems with a head, because it's my job to know, but in almost 60 years of boating I've never pulled one apart. So why would you need to know. Like me, if the head backs up, you'll probably "call the guy". Same with most things. Concentrate on the basics for now, i.e. a basic boating course by the C.G. Auxiliary or the U.S. Power Squadron. Once you have your boat have a captain worth with you learning the systems on your boat, and how to run it. What you do want to learn is how to trouble-shoot problems, but that comes mostly from experience rather than school. Keep your eyes and ears open around the docks. Boaters talk. So you'll learn a lot. Keep in mind though that they also talk a lot of B.S. For quite awhile I was intimidated hearing guys spout off the specifications of motors. Then one day I researched all the motors made by just the major manufacturers. Their sheer number told me that what most guys do is learn a bunch about their motor, than manage to turn conversations towards that motor so they can sound cool. Even the professionals don't have anywhere near all the knowledge locked in their brains. What they learn is where to get the knowledge they need when they need it. Yes there are walking encyclopedias, and you've got a few of them here, but that's not most boaters. The main thing to remember, as was pointed out before, is to look over a boat closely, don't get lost in how nice it seems, and then get it surveyed.

Hello all. I too are new to the yacht world and in the process of looking for a 40-43 used vessel. I am learning a lot on this forum reading other posts, but need to jump in and get some feedback. I am looking at a used 43' 70's Hatteras. She looks good from what I can see. I am in Texas and the vessel is in Florida. I am asking a lot of questions and getting more pictures. Once all of the responses pan out, I am not sure where to go from here. I definitely would want a survey.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated. We will be living aboard the vessel most of the time. For now, it would be used to live on board more than travel.

We;come Gerdie.
First is it a SF or the M/Y? That'll make a big difference in how she was used. Most of those SF spent a good amount of time in the fishing charter market, which means they got a lot of use.
Second, remember that everything looks good in pictures.
Third, not knowing your experience level, let me suggest you bring a captain with you when you go to see her (friends don't look with an unbiased eye). A captain should be looking for why you SHOULDN'T buy it. Only if you still want her come back with a surveyor
Fourth, ask about hull blisters. Most older Hats have them, and the repair is in the neighborhood of $20,000.

Florida boats take a lot of abuse from the elements. Glues, fabric and foam dry out, and a lot grows down below. Bottom line is that you should ask the broker as many questions as possible looking for answers that'll cross her off your list. If it stays on your list, nothing will substitute for a personal visit. Awhile back I looked at an older boat that was listed as being in excellent shape. The pictures looked great. She was owned and lived aboard by the broker. I drove 5 hours to check it out From half-way down the dock she looked like she was painted by a house painter, and not a good one. It went downhill from there.

Good luck, and be sure to come back with more specific questions as you move forward.

Thank you for responding. It is a MY. According to the broker's response, there are no blisters. It was hulled out in 11/14. I do have a question. The boat has Canada as the flag of registry. Does this create any issues?

Boats built in North America can move between Transport Canada Registry and USCG Documentation without duty.

Get in touch with a maritime attorney to find out exactly what's involved these days. To me it would be a deal breaker. Not necessarily for the cost, but the hassle. I know of another boat in Florida that's been languishing on the market for years, and I believe that's the reason. Ask about the paperwork involved and taxes that would be due. Again I'm not a lawyer, just one of the guys who passed on that other boat.

P.S. I'd get that blister statement as part of your contract. Unless the work has already been done I have my doubts. Every 1980's 56 we looked at was blistered. The one my boss bought looked like a 15 y.o. kid who loved pizza and chocolate.

I said it can move between Canadian and USCG. I didn't say between Canadian, Cayman Islands, and USCG for instance.

Thank you for all of the information on the Canada registry. I will probably pass on this vessel. It appears to be somewhat of a hassle on the registry. I did not consider the vessel a bargain.

Although I don't know all the legal and financial ramifications, I'm left to wonder why someone would bring a boat to Florida, and not register/document the boat there prior to putting it up for sale. Could questions / hassles be raised about how long it's been there? I have a feeling that if it was brought down specifically to sell it'd be one story, but after a few years quite another. Just seems that, if it were simple, the seller would have done it to remove that obstacle.

I don't see 1.5% on a boat valued at $200 or 300,000 thousand worth losing a sale over. That's easily negotiated. There just has to be more to it. We're talking about boats manufactured in the U.S., brought to Canada and registered there, and then brought back, spending years here while still maintaining its Canadian registration. I'm wondering about penalties and " Not For Sale to US Residents in US Waters" getting in the way. Deposits are generally given 'pursuant to satisfactory survey', not to 'OMG what kind of two government paper chase did I get involved with'.

I am going to go look at a vessel today that I am very interested in. It is in another state so I would have transportation cost (that is another subject) if I purchase. The vessel will be going to dry storage the day after I am scheduled to look at it. If I am really interested after I see it should I find a surveyor to survey the same day? Also if it goes to dry dock who has the cost of putting it back in for a sea trial?

Odd time of year for a boat to go into dry storage. That said it could be nothing more than a push for an immediate decision (which is generally a mistake to fall for). When / if it makes the cut you can always relaunch it.
When you start looking for a boat it's good to already have a surveyor you like lined up. If it turns into a real prospect (after a couple day's consideration), make the call to the surveyor. The seller should have no objection to keeping her in the water for a week for the surveyor to check out, but again, if he hauls you'll just relaunch. These hauls, survey and moving your purchase home are just costs of buying a boat. Better to just accept that than buy a wrong boat that'll cost you later. If the seller is planning to dry dock her there are obviously no serious buyers lined up right now. So don't be in a rush.
As you look at boats, don't expend too much thought on why this is the boat for you. The seller and his broker will help keep that in your mind. You should be looking for why this boat shouldn't make your final list; what you don't like. This is why I recommend bringing a captain with you to check out serious candidates. He shouldn't be impressed at all. He'll be looking for why you should walk away.
Ideally you should have a least a couple of similar buys on your final list of candidates. Then you can work the price between them. The savings can be huge.
When the boss & I were shopping for Valhalla we did a spreadsheet on several boats, figuring what it would cost to bring each up to what we wanted (this one needed a bow thruster, that one electronics, etc.). We narrowed the list down to 4 boats, then to 2. We were then able to negotiate a very good price.
Remember that you're in control as long as your money is in your pocket. Once you put the deposit down the entire dynamic changes.

Thank you for your feedback. You did give me some very good ideas on how to approach my purchase. There is so many options and I like your idea of tracking on a spreadsheet. Most of the vessels I am interested in are all out of state.

When you start buying larger vessels you must expect to travel, and plan for the expenses involved in that. When the boss and I were shopping for the Hatt we physically inspected boats in NY, Ct., R.I., Wisconsin, Chicago, Detroit, Ohio, Maryland and Florida. We also checked into and considered boats in Texas, N.C. and La. Big purchases deserve a lot of thought.
Wait till you get into the 150'+ range. You'll be looking worldwide. lol.

I think we will have to wait a while on the 150' plus. This will be our first livaboard.