Click for Walker Click for DeAngelo Click for Oceanco Click for Westport Click for JetForums

Thruster tube design and finish

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by PSW, Sep 2, 2017.

You need to be registered and signed in to view this content.
  1. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    Going to install a sidepower SE100 this winter and in process of getting first bid now from very reputable yard. I am going to have whichever yard I go with install and fair the tube and secure the thruster. I will do the wiring up to bridge etc. Given that while underway the thruster will be out of water, planing hull, I figure this would be a pretty simple install. They indicated 60 hours for glass work alone. WTF. I also want to take bottom paint down to barrier coat and start fresh with 1 new coat of barrier and 2 coats Interlux Ultra. Between these two fairly strait forward jobs they figure 3 weeks. Kinda scratching my head here.

    I want it done right and Cabo has a nice compartment forward for tube and thruster motor so access is not an issue on the inside. Running the cabbles and addtl rigging is not part of bid. What am I missing?

    So what does the wisdom on YF feel is the most suitable thruster tube finish/design?

    Teardrop with lots of fairing
    Or
    Clean cut with rounded edges

    Thanks
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2017
  2. menkes

    menkes Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2007
    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Aretsou, greece
    two years ago I installed SidePower SE100 on my yacht.
    Although the work was done by SP people in Athens, I think it should works wherever there is a SP representative.
    I have only three tips that you should take into consideration on the subject:
    1. Let SP people install and fair the tube and secure the thruster ! by all means with a teardrop and fairing !
    Consult SP personnel regarding the shape of the Chanel in the hull/
    SP personal gave me excellent service and did a perfect job !
    2. Install a dedicated Start/Stop AGM battery with 750 CCA minimum ! the bigger the better (I installed a 1000 CCA)
    Use one size larger power cables than SP recommended.
    3. In general, consult SP personal about any question you have.
    from my experience, generally,they have an excellent customer service !
  3. PacBlue

    PacBlue Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2009
    Messages:
    883
    Location:
    Dana Point, Ca
    Prefer a faired "bulge" forward with a teardrop "relief" aft to keep it from grabbing underway. There is a YF thread on a Sidepower Bow Thruster install in Alaska on a Donzi with good pics.
    But I have to say that at 40', I would be reluctant to give up that forward buoyancy and unless you are usually in a tight side tie dock in current, would not see the need for a BT in 40'. Maybe if you do a lot of single-handed operating?
  4. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    Thanks for the input guys. We have a lot of current around here along with wind. I am also docking often with limited help. A thruster while not necessary very often would bring great peace of mind when docking in tight areas with less than ideal conditions.
  5. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    Here are some pics of a new Hatteras that has a nice clean thruster install. What is possible issues with this type of thruster tube finish?

    Attached Files:

  6. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Non tear drop is fine. The labor hours seem high. Why not just use 1 of the sidepower dealers to do the entire install?

    You want to put 6 coats of barrier coat, NOT 1. If you don't have a ton of build up, flaking off from too much build up, or any blisters, then leave the bottom paint alone......
  7. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    I would prefer to not go all the way to barrier but the boat had years of Micron 66 when I bought it and it doesn't work well in the brackish water we have along with fresh water I would like to cruise on periodically. I tried scuffing the existing and puttimg a coat of Micron Extra with Biolux and not seeing results I would like. I suppose I could have them sand half way and do 2 new coats but figured I may just need to go all the way for best end result. I am concerned about using a process that is too abbrasive and tearing up the bottom at the same time. Boat is 9 yrs old and has always had ablative paint from what I can tell.

    I assume yard I am talking to is sidepower dealer as they said they would have rep put parts list together.

    As a guy who keeps boat in a clean secure bldg I am not loving idea of being in a yard that is 45 min from everything I do for 3 to 4 weeks. That is the time they figured they would need the boat as they are pulling guys on and off other projects.

    Appreciate the professional input on YF and the pm's I have received.
  8. menkes

    menkes Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2007
    Messages:
    62
    Location:
    Aretsou, greece
    PSW
    just remember, you are going to open two 200 mm holes in your hull
    you better be sure how the work is done, and SP experts have the best experience .
    so don't assume, be sure !
  9. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    The yard I am talking to currently is Delta as in Delta Yachts. I am going to talk to another yard as well. Both are Sidepower thruster experienced. I just need to figure out who has done more installs in my size range and has a game plan that I feel good about.

    Also going to try and figure out what local yard does the most installs of SP.
  10. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    With ablative paint, you can stick another brand right on top of Micron as long as it is compatible with just a normal scuffing of the old bottom paint. I've found Seahawk Cu-kote works really well down here in brackish water......but honestly, if you're going to re-barrier coat the bottom, hard paint is 3x more effective than ablative and the Interlux ultra seems to work best.
  11. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    My issue is that Micron 66 is not intended for brackish and will fail in freshwater. I need to find out from Interlux rep just how much needs to be sanded down for new paint to perform well in those conditions.
  12. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Micron is the least effective bottom paint I've come across
  13. rcrapps

    rcrapps Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2004
    Messages:
    4,870
    Location:
    Jax FL
    Were in Brackish waters most of the time.
    Ablative P Pro works great.
    AND of course a diver to dust the silt off.
    The best paint in the world is worthless when covered with river silt.
  14. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    Working on my 2nd quote with a large yard here in Seattle. They do 25 Side Power thrusters per year and we had productive conversation on scope of work needed. They also highly recommend Seahawk Cukote and idea of sanding down most the Micron but not going all the way to barrier coat to keep labor time and expense down. Doing all new barrier coat sounded great but the amount of hours needed to do it right has me thinking that taking off 75% of the Micron will get me a nice smooth bottom to apply the new paint to with good results. We shall see what their quote comes back like and hopefully I can get work underway in early October before it gets too cold.
  15. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Here if you're stripping the bottom paint/barrier coat off. They just soda blast it, they don't try to sand it.
  16. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    True. I am just concerned about disturbing gelcoat and soda blast going too far and being invasive. I will look for input once yard does some test spots. Hopefully a heavy sanding will provide a smooth surface for new paint adhere well.
  17. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    Soda blasting will be the most even and least evasive to the gelcoat if you use the right media.
  18. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    Hopefully won't have to go that deep but if I do need to take all the existing ablative off I will mention they consider going that route. Seahawk rep is going to be at the yard tomorrow and will be looking at my pics I sent to the yard and talking with them about game plan.
  19. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Fort Lauderdale
    I had a 2007 Sunseeker soda blasted about 3 years ago.....we had a problem where all of a sudden the bottom paint and barrier coating lifted in 1' sections......after blasting off 7 years of annual bottom paint, we picked up 2 knots at cruise. So there are some plus's to it....... Think of how much weight you add with each coat of bottom paint......
  20. PSW

    PSW Member

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2010
    Messages:
    96
    Location:
    Bellevue, WA
    Ordered the thruster equipment yesterday and working on a date to bring the boat to CSR in Seattle for tube install along with thruster motor and full bottom job. They do about 25 thruster jobs a year and almost exclusively use Side Power. They coordinated a game plan with the Seahawk rep and they will be doing a heavy bottom paint sanding and stopping just before barrier coat. The 2 coats of CuKote. When I asked them about their experience with CuKote they had nothing but good things to say and felt it was a great paint for my application. I confirmed on the boat last weekend and have the thruster compartment location identified along with where the battery bank and charger will be located. Going 24V dedicated system. I will do the rigging inside once everything else is complete and boat is back home in it's shed.

Share This Page