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Teak Finish?

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by thomed, Mar 10, 2004.

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  1. thomed

    thomed New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2004
    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    Ogden Dunes, IN, USA
    Ok,

    Here's an issue I'm sure noone has a strong opinion on. (he he)

    I have teak covering boards and a teak cockpit sole on my sportfish. It's used on the great lakes only, so limited season, (though it does get hot up here, believe it or not, sometimes 100 deg.) fresh water only so far. last season we just cleaned the wood well, then used the cheapo Star Brite oil, (I think "premium version"), and reoiled each month or so when it became faded.

    I'm looking at different possibilities to be more permanent, and also so it doesn't turn black and filthy like mine eventually did. Looked at Sikkens Cetol, but I think I used this many years ago, and it looks like orangeish baby poop? I think coz of lots of iron oxide in it. No thanx.

    Thinking seriously about the 2 part Bristol yacht finish. Questions,

    1. Will this be too slick for the sole and teak flybridge ladder steps? Unsafe?
    2. Anyone else tried this product, it's a 2 part synthetic polymer, how's the durability? (I emailed Bristol, they tell me it's in use on many dance floors, bank lobbies, etc., with great results.)
    3. Once this is used, can you never go back to anything else?
    4. I'm concerned about the compound used in the seams between the teak boards on the cockpit sole, will this be ok with the harsh 2 part teak cleaning systems, and then sanding afterwards? Boat is a 1990 Ocean Supersport, cockpit is in great shape so far, but filthy as noted above.
    5. Can anyone recommend a teak clean system, and then what grits and how to sand the sole? Do I need a belt sander?

    Thanx for replies,

    thomed
    (patiently waiting for Spring)
  2. CTdave

    CTdave Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2004
    Messages:
    870
    Location:
    Greenwich CT/ Stuart FL
    NOOOOOOO belt sanding!!! LOL I think that would be a little harsh.
    I have used Bristol finish and it is BEAUTIFUL and has held up for 2 years so far in FL and CT (winter/summer) BUT.....
    It will be very slippery on the standing surfaces. Use it only where you would varnish. You can use other varnishes over it once well cured.
    I have a 42' Post Sport Fish which the teak covering boards look beautiful & I get lots of compliments.
    If the teak is really rough (raised grain), use a palm sander with 150 grit & then another light, quick sanding with 180 or more just to take out any sanding marks.
    Try cleaning it first if it isn't too rough.
    I clean it with a two part teak cleaner once every couple of months when needed. Don't use the two part cleaner too often. It will raise the grain after a while.
    After the 2 part cleaning & the wood is dry, get yourself "Amazons Golden Teak Oil". I have found it to be the best (I have tried them all). It really looks great and holds up very well. Put a good goat on & let it sit for 20-30 min & then rub it off with a towel. Add another coat a few hours later.

    Your right about the cetol stuff, it looks like baby poop & it flakes where the rubber seams are. It will also be very slippery.
    Let me know if I can give you any other tips
    Dave
  3. thomed

    thomed New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2004
    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    Ogden Dunes, IN, USA
    Bristol coating, teak finsishes, et al

    Thanx, Dave,

    Bristol it is on the covering boards, (and when I get around to it the mahogany toe rail) and I'll use the amazon on the cockpit sole and steps, etc.!

    Do I have the order right, if necessary, two part cleaner first, THEN, lightly sand if nec? What grits do you recommend, and any certain type of sandpaper required? (Due to wet environment, I'm remembering the advice never to use steel wool on a boat, bronze wool only, so, will carbide grit, etc, rust?)



    Thanx again,

    Tom D.

    (At the airport, returning to Chicago from National Boating Federation meeting in Houston. ):cool:
  4. CTdave

    CTdave Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2004
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    870
    Location:
    Greenwich CT/ Stuart FL
    Yes, I would recommend (two part) cleaning it first. Then, see what the condition is. If nescessary, then sand with ....say...150 or 180 to take down the rough edges. You should be ready to oil but if you start seeing any deep sand marks, hit it again with a finer paper.
    Dave
  5. JHA

    JHA Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2004
    Messages:
    75
    Location:
    Ft. Lauderdale
    Be verry careful when sanding your teak decks. In the old days they were solid 3/4" - 1 1/2" teak - these days it's usually 1/4" veneer over plywood. My personal preference for finishing is - NOTHING - there's a reason builders have used teak for decks for so many years! Give it a scrub with electrasol (yes - dishwasher powder) mixed in a bucket of warm water - if you scrub it whenever you wash the boat it should stay pretty clean. Hit it with a two-part once or twice a season as needed. Once you go down the oiling road it's hard to turn back - it's a whole can of worms that's not often worth opening.
  6. boblcf

    boblcf New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2005
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    Location:
    boston
    teak finish

    through trial and error i've tried them all. here is what has worked best for me and turns heads at every marina when i pull in with my 46 post.

    use the 2 part cleaner, but dont use the brushes that come with it. they ruin the wood. once part "a" darkens well, scrub it with the grain using an abrasive sponge pad. then apply part "b", and wait until it turns the wood back to a golden light color and then rinse off. (of course make sure that any fiberglass stays rinsed if the chemicals are running down it)

    now sand the wood with the grain starting with 150, then 220 paper till it's real smooth. if the surface is still wet just use wet/dry paper, but always stay with the grain.

    now apply WATCO FINISHING OIL(you can get it at home depot) with a cheap paint brush to cover the surface well, and let it settle down into the wood for about 30 minutes. if it' real sunny out, allow it to seep into the wood for a shorter period of time, otherwise it will harden up on you.

    doing a section at a time, apply another coat and while still wet begin sanding the oil into the wood along the grain, using 320 wet sandpaper. keep sanding until the suface feels smooth and your making a mud like substance. allow the mud to sit a while but don't let it dry. if it dries just add a little more oil to it and sand it. it will become mud once again.

    now take a BABY DIAPER and rub the oil into the wood along the grain. the mud(oil and wood dust) will serve to fill in any voids in the wood. do not use terry cloth or any other rags. diapers only. otherwise your wasting your time as it just won't come out right. keep turning the diapers to clean sides until you get the surface nice and smooth and dry. now buff it with the grain with clean diapers.

    you can even give it another coat using 400 or 600 paper and then buffing once again with the diaper, but then you'd be sick like me.

    avoid the mistakes i've made learning how to use the product.

    DO NOT brush the Watco oil on and let it stay that way because it might look gorgeous. it will harden like a varnish if you do. you have to sand the oil in and then wipe off with the diaper rags before buffing it.

    when done it will look awesome and should feel as smooth as a newborn's bum.

    good luck amd let me know how you make out.

    bob
  7. AMG

    AMG YF Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2004
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    5,375
    Location:
    Sweden
    Since the subject is alive again, I must chime in with JHA. In 1993 when I was living on a yacht in Golfe Juan, I was looking at what products all the others used on their decks and couldn´t find any that gave the result I wanted.

    Since the teak needs no oil to survive and most products gave it an unnatural colour, I was thinking of using just tensides to make and keep it clean and natural. The place to find it was in the kitchen where the dishwasher powder seemed to have what I needed. It has some bleech which can be harmful on anodized aluminium, but otherwise it should be OK.

    I used one dl of powder in a litre of hot water. First I wetted the whole deck with lots of water and then I poured a little detergent at a time.

    I used the pads attached to a pole, where the the brown coloured is good for teak decks. They are like scotchbrite in lettersize pads if you haven´t seen them. By scrubbing sideways to the grain or in gentle circles with very little force used, the dirt came off swift and easy. You need to flush several times and scrub in between to rinse it off and afterwards the teak will stay natural and easy to keep clean with just flushing water and using the same pad regularly. The dishwasher powder I only used twice a year.

    No sticky oil, no sanding (if not needed to restore an uneven surface) and never scrub along the grain was my recipe. It wasn´t long before this method was used on many other yachts in Golfe Juan and Antibes, and last week I used it again here in Sweden to a yacht owners delight... :)

    The only downside that I know of, is the sales of expensive teak cleaners... ;)