Anyone had occasion to remove/replace the hatch in the hardtop? Mine has a very slow, occasional drip and probably best to just replace the whole thing. My fear is that the hatch to hardtop is caulked with a permanent bonding adhesive like 3M 5200 and if I start to pull it apart I'm going to find that I need to take a Sawzall to it. For some maddening reason, Ocean used permanent adhesive in places you'd never expect, like in assemblies that would surely need to come apart at some point down the road. Wondering if anyone has removed a hatch and knows one way or the other before I dig into it.
I think water is intruding at the external flange to hardtop joint, not at the gasketed joint where the hatch cover closes. Pretty sure it needs to be rebedded
I can't speak to the specific caulk used but even if it's 52 million it's not too difficult to remove intact. Start with several long taper wedges, usually a hardwood works best, working on a corner and out as you begin lifting the flange. Slow and steady pressure will eventually get enough gap to work with, once you've got a gap started, use a piece of Dacron fishing line or the newer braids, as a "saw" and slice the caulk under the flange working around the perimeter as it releases.
There is a second formula of de-bond for 5200 woes. The first version worked well for me on one project. Patience is a must.
Judicious use of a heat gun really works a treat on sealant. I learned that embarrassingly late in life.
Tashmoo, I had to do the foredeck hatch on my 43'. I have to now do the one in the hardtop as well. They are leaking around the flange as you described. When I pulled the foredeck hatch it was not too bad. I removed the screws then used a utility knife to "cut" the caulk from the outside. Then I used a sharpened putty knife and some hard wood wedges. Was able to get putty knife under a corner, and pry it up enough to push a hardwood wedge in. Then I tapped a succession of about 4 wedges going around, removing and replacing, until the hatch just broke lose. Not a big deal.
What condition was the frame when it broke loose? Not to dump on your event, but 3M 5200 is a PIA to break loose. Some other bonding / sealants are just as mean. If your frame was re-usable, then great & FM.
The frame was in fine condition. Rebedded it with boatlife caulk and have had no trouble in 2 seasons. I don't think it was bedded with 5200 but regardless, using small hardwood wedges tapped in with a hammer is a great way to slowly apply even pressure without mangling the hatch. Beats the heck out of using a prybar.
Prybar??? Never thought of that. We just use detonating cord.. It is rare to re-use a hatch in our area, by the time it needs to be re-sealed, it's usually already eaten up by the sun and salt. Our shop always installs a new hatch. With lead time (4 weeks) , Bomar will make a dis-continued hatches for older boats.
The hatch was in good condition when removed, it was a pretty heavy unit. I tried to find an off the shelf replacement to no joy. I did check with bomar on a replacement as the paint was failing on mine and the lens needed rebedding. But they wanted about $1200 and quoted a 6 week lead time. So I elected to strip the paint, repaint it with rattle can "epoxy appliance paint" and rebed the lens. Took a few hours but seems to be holding up well. No replacement for new obviously but with this boat I've had to pick my battles. As to the det cord, I never thought of that. I like it...
Thanks. Relieved to hear that our factory friends apparently spared the 5200 here. They *did* use 5200 to caulk the spreader light mount brackets to the hardtop. Go figure