Imron Paint touch-up

You might try Interlux's forum, I've found them helpful and informative. They make a one and two part poly that should work.

The prep is 90% of the success or failure of the paint on aluminum..

I wouldn't touch it up. If it's peeling in some area's, it will sooner than later peel in others. I would strip the entire door frame down to the bare metal. Apply the appropriate zinc chromate primer from the paint manufacturer you're going to use, then repaint the entire door frame.

See...someone has not read the proper prep steps...no wonder some paint jobs fail..YMMV

I too have this problem on my '99 404cpmy. Carver used AwlGrip at the time which has been reported to have had issues with peeling and bubbling. I am planning to do a DIY repair and hope for the best.

Hi,

Are you sure this is the best thing to use on bare Alu?

I would check with a coatings rep. The preferred method used to be an alodine conversion coat followed by an epoxy primer then a top coat. Is it peeling/bubbling around the fasteners or just random? I have not had to paint in about 25 years and I'm sure things have changed.

still not correct what has been posted...got Awlgrips site, download the instruction sheets and follow that..geeeeeeeeeeeee........I have been using the stuff on aluminum for over 20yrs..

I don't have a background in metals but I think is has something to do with dissimilar metals. It creates a white calcium looking material that has to be removed prior to priming. To answer your question, Imrom can be touched up with some degree of success. Henkel makes a conversion coat and should have information on its use. If you sand, prime and paint you should get a respectable job. You can wet sand and buff Imron with #1000 or #1500 if you want it to look "sprayed".

It has been used for years and years on aluminum. Outboard manufacturers use it as a primer on their parts. The best thing to use would be the top coat paint manufacturer that you're going to use primer that is for aluminum.

Hi,

There must be a reason I have not seen it used on new builds for years.

I will ask around, my paint guy who was briefly a YF Member sadly passed away so I am looking for someone who can help me with new projects.

This can be an appraisal question

As far as I know, it is not used on entire builds due to cost on that amount of surface area and probably EPA nonsense. BUT, it is still widely used for parts and pieces and smaller scale items such as aluminum door trim, or a O/B lower unit, etc.

The procedure is basically as follows.
Remove all old coatings down to bare alum.
Be sure all imperfections or corrosion. is taken out
Treat with Alum prep as per instruction sheet, rinse etc, dry then apply Alodine 1201, if there are bare patches of alum. that are not taking the alodine, those parts are not "clean" re clean etc . then you can prime coat with appropriate primer depending on what top coats you want to use, then fair out as need, if alum. re exposed after sanding, re clean as first step, re prime, re sand primer as required, wash thoroughly with reducer prior to topcoat, for real fussy jobs you may want to refill any shrinkage spots and re prime those tiny areas.
Then maybe you can topcoat .

Also, wear a good respirator when sanding the aluminum as aluminum dust is very toxic if you inhale it.

I have a 466 Carver (probably same paint) I called Carver and they hooked me up with Midwest Industrial Coatings and they mixed up factory paint for a perfect match. I had to by a quart minimum but they also sold it in a spray can format. Not cheap but mix was perfect! As said ealier, the aluminum must be prepped perfect or all will be for not!

iseau,

Do you have a part number/paint code? I need to order some for my 466. Also, who did you contact at Midwest Industrial Coatings? Might make my ordering the paint go easier if I have the part number/paint code.

Thanks,
Gary

I just pulled mine off and had them powder coated. End of problem. Fairly cheep too.