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Seperating coupler from shaft

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by Beau, Oct 12, 2014.

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  1. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #1
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    Trying to separate my couplers from 2 1/2 tapered shafts , they have been on for 16 years. I have used heat, chemical, hammers and a 10 ton ram. Only thing that come s apart is the keyway.
  2. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #2
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Of course, you removed the inside safety pin and nut. I remember on my 2.5" tapered shaft trying to drop my clutch coupler; put a tall socket between the shaft end and the clutch flange, using all 8 of the coupling bolts, clamping back and then the shaft popped loose. Be sure to keep the original nut on the shaft end a few turns to protect the threads. I used an impact gun, broken pattern on all 8 bolts/nuts.

    What keyway?
  3. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #3
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    The nut was held in place by to outside bolts which were removed

    Attached Files:

  4. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #4
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If your sure there was not a second nut, then start that nut pack on a few threads ( just a turn or two before it bottoms back on) put a heavy socket or steel pig inside and close that coupler back up. You may have to use some taps of junk to hold the pig in place until the 8 bolts offer holding tension. using the 8 bolts it looks like you have, draw it up till POP... I popped my Stb shaft 4 years ago. Not off since '78.
    I hope I explained that correctly.
  5. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #5
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    We had a 10 ton ram pushing on the end of the shaft as we rapped away with a 5 lb hammer. I'd like to upload a photo but can't seem to do it
  6. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #6
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    Not sure I want to push on the back of my crank like that if the ram won't budge it? Might try something across the engine side of the coupler, maybe that's want you were saying and I didn't get it...
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2014
  7. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #7
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    sorry oldboater. I'm really having trouble with this new site, and can't get you the pictures I'd like
  8. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #8
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Back of the crank? no. make a sandwich between the coupler and the output flange of the clutch with a socket or pig in between to push from the flange or clutch out shaft end to the top of the propeller shaft while compressing the coupler forward to the flange using the 8 coupling bolts.
    Porta power is fluid driven. Yea, it's hydrologic, not supposed to compress much, but when it comes to cold hard steel working against cold hard steel, porta power can't come close.
    Clamp thak sucka up, then rap on it with a hammer. the ring will tell you what i'm talking about.
  9. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #9
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    Thanks OB. We are in tune, will try that next.
  10. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #10
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Not OB. Thats cool.
    Just remember the Crappy attitude, BFH's win...
  11. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #11
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    too much hammering today, my apologies and thank you for the good advice
  12. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #12
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I'm chasing the ringing out of my head now (wife noise), chasing with cola and lime....
    Weekend projects always run out of hours.
    Mine's down also. Bad fuel flow sensor, fuel lines apart, can't go manatee trolling (hate it when that happens)...
    Fresh eyes and thoughts next time.
    ,rc
  13. Marmot, Oct 12, 2014
    #13
    Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    More heat, less hammering. Mr. rcrapps provided the best method, use multiple bolts symmetrically and plenty of heat. Most people are afraid of heat but for work like this, fire is your friend. Plenty of heat from the start and tighten bolts all during the process, don't wimp out and stop before it pops.
  14. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #14
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    There was still paint on the coupler. No heat.
    I'm pretty concerned when using that blue tip wrench. but it is a great tool. I usually have a couple of kids over head with some old CO2 bottles at the ready. Applied correctly that blue tip should not scatter out much but become a part of the area your heating. Burning paint and a couple of foreign sparks are the concern. A coupler that size may take some gas. Be generous with it and replenish it well when done (usually borrowed).
  15. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #15
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    AND, again, make sure there is not a second nut in there.
  16. Beau, Oct 12, 2014
    #16
    Beau

    Beau Senior Member

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    Hers the pic of inside the coupler... not second nut that we can find. Heated the other side that's why you don't see the "burn". Trying clicking on the photo. It gets clearer for me when I do that

    Attached Files:

  17. dsharp, Oct 12, 2014
    #17
    dsharp

    dsharp Senior Member

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    Can you back the nut off a couple of turns and use the bolts to put a strain on the coupling . I've had the best luck putting a strain on the coupling then hit it on the side with a large drift. I kept a short piece of 1 1/2" shaft for a drift. I can't tell how large the bolt holes are, the bolts may be too small to get enough strain on it. If you use heat it's going to take a rosebud to get enough heat in that coupling.
  18. leeky, Oct 12, 2014
    #18
    leeky

    leeky Senior Member

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    What's a pig?
  19. dsharp, Oct 12, 2014
    #19
    dsharp

    dsharp Senior Member

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    I think he means a chunk of metal, like pig iron
  20. Capt Ralph, Oct 12, 2014
    #20
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Yes. My favorite is the head from an old 4 lb, square headed hammer. Then some scrap 1" plate scraps. some wedge shaped. Amazing what is bouncing around in the back of my van.
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