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Detroit diesel 12v71TI no power out of the hole

Discussion in 'Engines' started by CaptOz, Jun 5, 2014.

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  1. K1W1, Jun 12, 2014
    #21
    K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    A strange phenomenon called wear can cause a loss of performance in any mechanical item.

    It is gear driven and it is also what is known as a gear pump meaning it has a pair of normally spur cut gears in it, one is driven by the engine and the other one is driven by this one. They are lubricated by the pumped medium.

    Would this be the same engine the flywheel fell off by any chance?

    The relief valve might also be opening, you will know a lot more when you can determine what the fuel pressure is.
  2. CaptOz, Jun 12, 2014
    #22
    CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Wow, You remember my Flywheel post! Im impressed.

    Yes it certainly is.

    How could that have affected the fuel pump?
  3. K1W1, Jun 12, 2014
    #23
    K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    I am not saying it did but vibration can and does cause strange wear on some parts of the drive rain and its accessories at times.
  4. Capt J, Jun 12, 2014
    #24
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    At this point, getting a trained DD mechanic out would be your most cost effective means of correcting the problem rather than simply pissing in the wind. There are several good ones in the Miami area.
  5. Capt Ralph, Jun 28, 2014
    #25
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Any updates?
  6. CaptOz, Aug 28, 2014
    #26
    CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Loss of Power Found!

    Hi Guys,

    Sorry for the Long Delay, I was tied up with family summer vacations and work.

    Anyways, after checking all the fuel supplies, pressure etc. I decide to open up the airboxes. The Outside inside bank box was pristine however the outside bank box(The box that supplies air to the outside 6 cylinders) was 90% clogged!!!

    I washed it down a few times already, but every time I come back I see salt residue.

    I ran the engine with the turbo connected to it, and I don't see any water coming out. I ran as high as 2000 rpms. I just cant seem to wash all the salt off.

    What do you guys recommend to get all the salt off?

    Also a few aluminum fins at the right edge of the box have eroded away due to the salt. At this point we can say it has been there since my April 30th trip to the Bahamas. It was on this trip that I had two clamps break off and salt water squirted everywhere.

    Im thinking of taking the box out and dipping in some solution and blowing it out with a compressor hose. What do you guys recommend? Also might have it pressure tested.

    Also, how much salt do you think the engine injested and other than an oil change what else can I do to get rid of the Salt?

    Thanks Again and Sorry for the Delay.

    Attached Files:

  7. CaptOz, Aug 28, 2014
    #27
    CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Detroit Diesel 12V71 Water Pump Leaking

    Hi,

    I recently started to see water underneath my starboard engine. It looked like rusty water from the radiator but I wasn't sure. I check expansion tank and it was full.

    I went out a few weekends ago and as soon as I got up to 800 rpms coming out of the marina, my high temp alarm went off. I brought it back to idle, ~640rpm, but temp kept going up. I returned back to the Marina and turned off engine. I verified with heat gun that thermostat was at 220 and intercooler was at 194. I waited 2 hours and opened up the expansion tank which was full to my surprise. Then I removed radiator cap from the heat exchanger and there was not water in there. Why didn't expansion tank fill the heat exchanger? Must be clogged. I then filled it with regular water only. I estimated about 2 gallons worth. Then started the engine and took boat for a spin and temps were back to normal.

    Do you think the overheat might have caused damaged? It was barely above Idle. Engine seems to be normal.

    While troubleshooting my other problem with this motor(Clogged aftercooler from Salt injestion), I notice the water leaking underneath the engine block. I finally traced the leak to the Engine water pump. Seem to be leaking through weap hole.

    Do I need a new pump or just Seals? I see there is a special tool for seal removal.

    Can someone elaborate on how difficult and how to change the water pump? Also do you recommend a complete cooling system cleaning and servicing of coolers?

    Thanks in advance.

    Attached Files:

  8. Capt Ralph, Aug 28, 2014
    #28
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Back seal is leaking a bit. The seal is lust like a well pump seal. I replaced mine with what redneck tools I have (nothing special).
    If you're inclined, you can do it. No need to pull the whole pump, all you need to get at is under the front cover.
  9. karo1776, Sep 2, 2014
    #29
    karo1776

    karo1776 Senior Member

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    Plain white vinegar works well and is inexpensive.

    FYI... We have electric distillers that makes several gallons a day from the regular potable water supply that has a tap in the galley... every boat every house every apartment... same. These were installed years ago after the ladies decided they did not like the idea of water sitting around in tanks "growing things" and "dead mice rotting in them" etc. wanted all the water for drinks "pure" and "makes thing taste better." This comes from the over eighty and over ninety set remembering cistern water... long story. No never mind on a boat the tanks are sealed... its that they are sure they are contaminated... and they are horrified that "bleach" would be added... ok to clean with it but add chlorine to drinking water... OMG." Anyway the systems use an electric boiler and a cooling coil and a small tank for storage... but it is stainless and easily accessible. The boilers alway have a scale problem. This used to be cleaned with a special cleaner... but it did not work well. So the "les mamah" discussed this came up with vinegar cleaning. It does work better and being a economical lot they figured out it could be saved a reused several times before it lost it effectiveness... which does not happen unless they are around.

    This takes me back to my childhood and my grandmother and her sister and the "butter" great aunt Lee would have the staff throw out any butter that had been set out for anytime at all... "mice will have been in it" now perhaps this is a generational thing with those born in the late 1870s! It is darn hard to spread butter that is hard as a brick! Bread and "sliced butter" sandwiches!
  10. Bamboo, Sep 7, 2014
    #30
    Bamboo

    Bamboo Senior Member

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    No one has mentioned nor did you state why you went from a 4 blade to a 3 blade prop- or why you changed the exhaust path. If those were the only two changes shouldn't you be looking at those as a primary reason for initially better fuel use and poorer out of the hole performance? Sounds like you are now a bit overpropped if she doesn't want to get out of the hole.
  11. Old Phart, Sep 7, 2014
    #31
    Old Phart

    Old Phart Senior Member

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    I dunno
    Nuke it = soft spread butter. :rolleyes:

    Microwave the hard butter for a few seconds

    or time required, depending upon microwave.
  12. CaptOz, Sep 9, 2014
    #32
    CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Ok..

    What redneck tools did you use? LOL
  13. Capt Ralph, Sep 9, 2014
    #33
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    I can tell ya, but then I'd have to kill ya.
    LOL

    2 oz rum, 1/2" socket & ratchet, Small external snap tool. Long needle nose plyers. 2 oz rum, Long small flat tip screw stick, 2 more oz rum, Medium vice grips, long punch & mallet, 2 more oz rum (this time with mixer).

    Reassemble in reverse order (if you can remember after all da rum).

    ,rc
  14. CaptOz, Sep 11, 2014
    #34
    CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    I have the rum tool, thats non issue.

    The other tools I have pretty much also. But after I pop off the cover of the pump, do you have a step by step description of what to do?

    Just quoted a reman pump and its $538 with the core. Or a rebuild kit is $120.

    Do I have to rebuild the entire pump? Seems like I only need to replace the seal like you mention.
  15. Capt J, Sep 11, 2014
    #35
    Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Honestly, I'd put a reman'ed pump on. Most of the time when the seal leaks it's for another reason. A bearing going bad causing impellor wobble, etc. You can try the seal, but it's only a fix 40% of the time. It's not very hard to change the seal, just pay attention to how it comes apart, or get a diagrahm from the DD dealer you buy the seal from.
  16. CaptOz, Sep 11, 2014
    #36
    CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Thanks,

    I rather spend the few hundred on a new pump that the extra thousands after the engine overheats
  17. Capt Ralph, Oct 18, 2014
    #37
    Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    So, What did you decided / do?
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