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35 Bertram: full restoration & repower

Discussion in 'Bertram Yacht' started by 35bert, May 28, 2009.

  1. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    sorry about the 200k photos I thought that was the correct image size I'll re size to 600 pix......

    I'll put down a full refit list later....
  2. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    here we go

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  3. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    on to carbon

    more sticky days

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  4. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    grind sand test fit

    it's so much fun think I build a cabon hard top

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  5. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Much better size :)

    Did a full peel and repair to a 42ft Sailboat once, I know what was involved in that only too well.
  6. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    trailerable

    and she's worked my body and it hurts all over.......... test fit and re test fit and prime hibuild then 545....

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  7. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    the crapyest job in the world


    peeling bottom just sucked I'd rather do any thing, lay up is not any better and faring and blocking is just as bad... just hell under there for two or three months... LOL

    thanks
  8. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    just me my sata and a lot of awlgrip

    and they say awlgrip is tricky but thats mostly painters that want 20k to spray me.. good thing I can spray... lol

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  9. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    a little clear gos a long way

    and some hard where fitting and almost finished 6 months later that was so ez...... lol

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  10. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    and its time to go to work

    so here is the last photo 4 now,, tower test fit

    hope you all git a kick out of the 1973 carbon bottom bertram refit...

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  11. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    acoustic insulation

    ya....... so this stuff has been bugging me for 3 days...... love to have a bilge lined with 2lib barrier and perforated aluminum. But for less weight I can put in a solid granite honeycomb Veneer salon floor 3lbs per ft... and now I do not want a stone floor in my boat or a lead lined bilge...... I have spent a lot of time and $$$$$ to cut weight. using composits that will not rot and are much stronger that the factory ply wood.... just to put 400lbs of lead in the bilge. now I also do not want a noisy salon so this is where the trouble starts... she was lined from bertram with marine board but alto it navy rated its not considered to be the best sound barrier. now at bertram they thought a lot about a lot of stuff like how to make the air clean in the entier bilge and is more then good flow for to days smaller hi power hi reveing diesels with smaller displacements.... but not the best for stopping them diesels from making that lo's pulsing from under you feat... cats are know to be real loud when ur running a B out the cut the 28 the school runs is loud...
    see the engine room truly starts at the center bulk head the only kinda full bulkhead in a 35' and stops at the transom on a 35' there are two partial bulkheads on each side of the motor and two 3/4 pieces of ply glassed to each side of the gas tank. she pulls air from an air box on the side of the boat and from 4 clam shell vents. the air box is ducked around and dumps between the diesels and the clam shells dump along the hull in front and back of the motors but on the other sides of the partial bulk heads. now changing this is no ez task and is a bad move any way I think of it. and lets face it I am not mach for the guy who thought this out the first time....

    so I'm thinking light weight navy marine board wight heat barrier.... no lead...
  12. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    MORE POWER little space

    so its also about time to run the gen systems. that means fun with amp's... I have been planing to run two d7 diesels with a set of 5000wat gen heads. now the d7 is rated at 6 hp and 4.5kw and seeing as I'd like to keep them belt driven to keep them small I'll need to go with two barring heads. now I have to have a head that I can parallel to 120vac so I can pull around 36 amps witch is the max start load on the ac with the pump running. so now the only two 5000w gen heads that can be paralleled that I have seen out there are the north star 5000w and the blue chines gen heads that are brush heads not brushless like the northstar.. now winco's head can't be paralleled so are there any others???????????? just need a solid 36 amps out of these d7's
  13. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    or just 1lb lead barrier glued to 1/8 fiberglass panels???
  14. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    lead belly


    well I broke down and went with the 1lb 1in barrier foam insulation with radiant heat foil liner total wight of 120lbs.... I boxed in the whole engine compartment leaving 1 ft openings next to each clam shell vent tube, with a 2 ft baffled on the other side of the vent tube. I installed it by spraying glue on the insulation & what ever we were attaching insulation to also go a thick coat of glue. on the hull sides where there is no wood to screw in too I glassed 2in strips of ply wood and covered it all with glue. then after all insulation was glued in I drilled small holes in the insulation to get thro the rubber lead liner and anchored it all down using 1 1/2in stainless screws and 2" stainless washers... I ran screws every 18in or so and 12in or so on the undersides of the hatches and floor...

    I will post some shots of my new shiny finished bilge.....:)
  15. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    forward salon bilge

    Well moving on from lining the engine room with the led mat insulation. And on to lining the forward salon bilge. The bilge just in front of the engine room houses the A/C systems, A/C pumps, raw water wash down pump, fresh water system pump, fresh water tank, water heater, water system bilge box and black water system tank. At bertram they put the water tank in between the two center stringers and glass a piece of 3/4 inch ply-wood over the top. For 20 or so years the only prob was a dirty ugly bilge coverd in gray paint, untill the water tank rots out... So I cut a hole in the ply and pulled what was left of the old tank.. I put a water blatter in and installed a hatch in the whole I cut to remove the old tank... When it came to sound proofing I went with a 1 lb barrier glued to 1/8 fiberglass reinforced plastic. It's not as sound proofed a method as the engine room, and causes a lot of interior sound reflection. Now any sound leaving the space will still have to pass thro the barrier & I do not think the same level of deadening is needed to quite pumps & A/C. It also allows for a real clean install of all the systems, lots of witch are mounted on the roof and walls. I'd love to line the engine room with the same stuff but the noise in the engine room will make an inspection of the running motors less then pleasant or require me to put on aircraft runway earmuffs. Or I can cough up the $360 bucks and 90 lbs for the perforated aluminum and that is most likely the safer bet for a cosmetically clean and fully functional sound deadened bilge.... for now I'll just stick with the foil liner in the engine room but the thought is there so you never know......
  16. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    I want here in the water not in the rain

    well this week we are finishing the bilge sound deadening, 5200ing the thro hulls above water line & all the stainless hardwhare. we also pulled all the salon windows and simflexed them back in, 3 days after one window shattered in the night I was laze when installing the last window and over lapped the trim once it was screw down in must have bent the glass and shattered it days later. I am having a new one made now... The rain keeps falling so I do not want to 5200 in the seacocks in fearing that the bilge will fill with water and cover my fresh 5200. worse then that the wiginns lift is down in the yard & keeping me from putting my motors in place, my racors in and the interior in & salon doors in & so on...

    today I think were going to finish the anchor locker and maybe put the bomar hatches in i am also try and plum the bilge pumps, and water system... well see how the weather holds, its raining now
  17. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    nothing but sun!

    3 full days with no water falling. That is big this time of year in Florida:)
    I switched gears away from the sound deadening and pluming the water system and all the stuff that can be done at the dock but gets done in the rain. So after that bilge was good and dry we got to the thro hulls & seacocks... I had to go with fast 5200 with rain ever looming off in the distance, but the stuff drys quick at 96deg and rain never fell...


    I know star board is the shim of choice for thro hulls but I do not like it I think it is BS and there are much better reasons for using marine ply wood. I have a stack of star board I layed out $60 bucks for the marine ply so cost is not a reason, I think starboard is to heavy it yellows in uv rays and is only good for a cheap cutting boards sold at wall mart...... 1 The fact is that if in a year or thirty years you do leak a little water you will just keep leaking with star board, ply wood dose like wood boat have for the last 4000 years or more and swells then the leak stops... 2 noting bonds to starboard NOTHING not paint, glue, fiberglass, epoxy nothing and that INCLUEDES 5200, that's why you need to rough up the side being glued for it to stick so it can grab the little plastic hairs and bumps... Now I know what your thinking "well starboard will not rot" well the ply wood in my navy run bertram that was a daily driver 37 years had factory plywood thro hulls with no rot.. I have saved samples of what I have taken off the bertram and put on and I know they are factory shims see the same green putty that bertram used to glue in the fuel tank, salon bulk head, engine bunks and so on is all over the shin and needed to be chiseled out. Now what bertram did was slap a bunch of fiberglass filler to the hull the stuck 3/4 marine ply to it then cut there holes and good for 37 years. What I have done was the same alto I used epoxy to make my filler and used mostly resin in the mix to make it rock slid, the epoxy takes a bit to set and the resin soaks into the ply wood bonding the heck out of it. The top and sides are left dry to soak and breath if need be.

    The rain will be back this week so I know I'll be bilge rating it but I am a step closer to the water any way
  18. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi.

    It is very difficult to apply underwater and gets in your hair and all over your dive gear but it does go off under salt water so don't think it would have any issues under fresh water.
  19. 35bert

    35bert New Member

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    WOW that is cool to know it will work in such extremes... My friend told me it will dry in water yesterday but that is hard core... I was more worried about the pressure from the water if the bilge filled 12in and sunk the fittings before the 5200 kicked. I tend to over think things and it was only the lowest thro hulls next to the keel that I thought it may happen... Thank goodness it has stayed dry 3 days and maybe to day will make a forth.......

    I will snap some shots to day
  20. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Why don't you consider using a coring like divynicell instead of plywood as a coring? i agree starboard doesn't have good adhesive properties, but if you're going to coat things with resin and epoxy, divynicell will save you weight and is stronger then plywood.

    Yes, 5200 will cure underwater with no adverse effects. Also, if you keep opened 5200 in the refrigerator, the opened tube will not harden until you let it warm up and go to use it again.

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