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The Low down of Mooring lines?

 
 
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:19 PM   #16
K1W1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtluver
the midships rope eyes( dont no the correct term for them) ...


Hi,

These are commonly known as Fairleads
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:29 PM   #17
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Thanks K1W1...There are called Fairleads on all ships or just yachts?
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Old 10-29-2006, 12:37 PM   #18
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Hi,

I am pretty sure this term is used on any type of vessel.
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Old 10-29-2006, 06:28 PM   #19
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Cool Chocks and Fairleads

chock (n)
Definition: 1) Fairlead. A fitting mounted securely to the deck or cabin top through which lines are led. 2) A deck fitting used to secure moveable gear.

fairlead (n)
Definition: A block, padeye, ring or any other kind of gear which controls the path of a ship’s running rigging, and keeps it from fouling or chafing. Such as a turning block on a sailboat's sheet.

A chock is a fairlead, but a fairlead is not a chock, unless of course it's chockablock.
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtluver
SO what happned here with the Amels GU lines in this photo here taken by fellow member Stroepel. The aft line from the Port side is taught but the line a beam on the Starboard side is Very slack and looks to be serving no purpose really?........http://sports.webshots.com/photo/288...95209377AHlfFe
That photo is typical of the philosophy that "the more lines you have out, the happier you'll feel..."?! You can't see what's going on with the lines leading out from the bow in the photo, but anyway, let's remind ourselves what a mooring line is supposed to do:

1) Limit forward movements of the yacht (ie. stern lines)
2) Limit astern movements of the yacht (ie. bow lines)
3) Limit sideways movements of the yacht (ie. breastlines)
4) Limit forward, astern or sideways movements of the yacht (ie. spring lines)


When alongside, ideally, you'd have mooring lines to limit movements in all directions leading out from both the bow and stern of the yacht. In yachtluver's photo, that Amels appears to have just 1 spring line (to limit astern movement) plus 3 breast lines (1 of which is so slack as to not be doing anything at all except to catch fishhooks from nearby fishermen...). If I were the skipper, I might have preferred:

1) a stern line to limit forward movement from the innermost fairlead (ie. the 3rd or closest fairlead to the centre of the yacht on the port side) leading out to the mooring bollard farthest from the yacht's stern
2) a spring line to limit astern movement from the fairlead on the extreme corner on the port side leading out to the bollard on the quay / pier closest to the yacht's mid-section
3) a breast line to limit sideways movement from the fairlead on the extreme corner on the starboard side leading out to the same bollard as in 1)

In this particular situation, the extremely short breast line leading out from the middle fairlead on the port side may as well be a steel bar welded onto both the yacht and the quay...

By all means, "double-up on lines" if weather or tidal conditions demand, but at least ensure you arrange whatever lines you have out purposefully...?!

Obviously, a mooring line is just one part of a complete mooring system...whose components consist of the mooring bollards / bitts / cleats, fairleads and rollers or whatever on the yacht, the mooring line itself and the bollards / bitts / cleats or rings on the quay etc.

Severe injuries and even fatalities have occurred to passengers / crew or those on the quay due to the failure of one or more components, on yachts as well as in commercial shipping...

Before moving on, I'd just like to address another observation / question from yachtluver
Quote:
Anyhow, my next question.....or more out of curiosity. Seeing numerous pics of yachts berthed at the IYCA....marina in Antibes France with the yellow mooring buoys...I see the larger yachts such as Carinthia VII, Constellation(stargates' sister) and so on tied onto the buoys. Out of curiosity, they usually have to let out alot of rope from the midships rope eyes( dont no the correct term for them) to tie to a buoy that is off to the front. Is this as stable and secure as dropping anchor at the bow?..I dont know if i am getting what i want to ask come out...
The whole point of having these buoys at marinas like they do at the IYCA is so that yachts do not have to drop their anchors...! Actually, the problem is not actually dropping the anchors, it's about security and convenience, whilst other yachts "over whom you've dropped your anchors and chains" attempt to leave their berths, possibly dislodging your anchors and then when you yourself wish to leave your berth, and have to call in a diver "to untangle the mess lying on the seabed"...?! As for which particular fairlead the mooring lines lead out from the yacht to the buoys, well, it's all about purpose...?!

Back to mooring lines in general, for superyachts...

They're made of polyamide (nylon is the registered trademark of DuPont) or polyester, are of either double-braided or squareline (8 or 12 strand) construction and are usually spliced with a soft eye at one end. Rarely does one see 3 braided ropes used on yachts over about 25m (80ft).

Let's take a typical 50m (180ft) motoryacht's set of mooring lines:

Ø40mm double-braided or squareline, polyamide, with Ø75cm soft leather-protected eyes,

1) 4 x 20m
2) 2 x 30m
3) 2 x 40m

Depending on the classification society, you might also be required to carry a suitable tow-rope (a humongous coil of rope upto 200m. long and usually floating polypropylene squareline usually stowed (and forgotten) in the forepeak...which I'd recommend being cut down into say 2 x 100m lengths and used as the bow lines for when you go into somewhere like the IYCA and are allocated a 100m berth (and charged for it)...

Why polyamide (nylon), polyester or polypropylene? Here's some typical comparisons:

(all Ø40mm - just over 1 1/2")

Polyamide double-braided or squareline construction: breaking load: 40,000 daN (40,000kg to you and me); weight: 99kg per 100m; elongation (stretch) about 15-20% at 50% load; "a finished 30m mooring line weighs about 33kg".

Polyester double-braided or squareline construction: breaking load: 32,600 daN (32,600kg to you and me); weight: 121kg per 100m; elongation (stretch) about 10% at 50% load; "a finished 30m mooring line weighs about 40kg" . Granted, polyester has superior abrasion characteristics compared with polyamide, but is it really worth the additional initial cost for this and the fact that it has a lower breaking load...? I don't really think so all things considered, especially when your average superyacht owner likes to have "good-looking lines", replaced every 3-5 years...

Polypropylene squareline construction: breaking load: 26,500 daN (26,500kg to you and me); weight: 72kg per 100m; elongation (stretch) between 20-30% at 50% load; "a finished 30m mooring line weighs about 24kg". It also floats, compared to polyamide and polyester, which do not...!

So why polyamide?! Its' strength and weight advantages easily outweigh the wear characteristics of polyester lines. Provided the eyes and other chaffing points are suitably protected, I'd plump for polyamide (nylon) lines all the time. However, polypropylene lines will float, which makes them a lot easier to handle in some situations like when you're trying to get a long line out onto a dead tree (?!) in a secluded anchorage without swinging room somewhere in Turkey for example. Or tying up to the buoys at the IYCA...?!

But what do you do if you own a 86m yacht?!

Well, it's worth bearing in mind that unless you have multiple "California governors as deckies", it becomes impossible to correctly manually handle anything over Ø44mm mooring lines. A 30m Ø48mm polyamide mooring line weighs about 47kg, a polyester one about 58kg. The lines would probably not go around the mooring bollards / bitts / cleats, fairleads and rollers or whatever on the yacht, let alone the mooring capstans...?! So ensure that your new yacht has multiple over-engineered mooring bollards / bitts / cleats, fairleads and rollers so that you can satisfactorily double-up smaller lines...!

A short aside: commercial shipping nowadays is increasingly converting from use of steel-wire mooring lines to the use of synthetic alternatives like Spectra, Dyneema etc. which offer far greater breaking resistances for the same diameter. In fact, double-braided synthetic mooring lines are these days the preferred method when tying up your average 250,000 ton oil-tanker to its' offshore berth.

Another aside: a few ex. sailboat skippers who've moved onto (better-paying with bigger cabins etc.) jobs on motoryachts have brought along a new phenomenon which entails using very small (but extremely strong though not stretchy) Spectra and Dyneema type lines when first tying up, to be replaced by the more traditional (and bigger) polyamide mooring lines afterwards because they're so easy to handle (even by Nicole Kidman-lookalike stewardesses)...?!

Lastly, all the "traditional-looking" ropes one comes across these days (ie. the ones that look like hemp) are more likely to be of polypropylene construction: apparently it's because cultivating the plant that produces the original raw hemp material has inexplicably become illegal...

So you think I appear to be quite knowlegeable on the subject of mooring lines huh? Well, that's because once upon a time (a long time ago and in a far off galaxy), I was on the foredeck of a 40m yacht, had sent out the heaving line and was watching the mooring line being retrieved through the fairlead from the dock, until the end ran out as well...it was a bit short one decided afterwards?!
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:24 AM   #21
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airship... That, my friend, is a very lengthy and informative post.
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:34 AM   #22
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Twisted, tied, bound & braided! Excellent post Airship! Use all the emoticons you want...
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:48 PM   #23
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I'm on an emoticon roll so I my as well finish...

One of the most distressing images I've come across in Mediterranean ports are those yachts which, instead of simply slipping their leather-protected soft-eyed mooring lines "into the eyes and over" other mooring lines ( ) on the relatively smooth cast-steel mooring bollards on the quay, prefer to use chain on the bollards before connecting this to the soft-eyed mooring line. It is not good practice putting chain through a soft eye. If you want to put chain on the end of your mooring line, then specify a solid thimble on the end, instead of a soft eye. It's understandable when you absolutely have to do something like that because there are no bollards, perhaps only rings on the quay (I once used 4 x 4 inch timber in French Polynesia on a 55m - we didn't have any spare chain - work that out). But it really does hurt rope being bent around such a tight radius...so have some extra large shackles and thimbles available on the hopefully rare occasions this sort of thing is required. If you regualarly have to use rings, then have thimbles permanently spliced into your mooring lines instead of soft eyes?!

Just to finish...please don't use solid anodes or lead-shot and suchlike as weights in your monkey's fists. A golf-ball will do. As any experienced deckie who's been on long passages will tell you, it's not the weight in the monkey's fist that sends the heaving line over efficiently...it's technique (think about wrist and arm action ). Plus it prevents unintended injuries to bystanders and port officials alike on the quay (you know how everyone likes to congregate when a superyacht ties up in a busy marina)...

I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll have to get over a slight hangover first...?!
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Old 11-16-2006, 01:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airship
Just to finish...please don't use solid anodes or lead-shot and suchlike as weights in your monkey's fists. A golf-ball will do.

I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll have to get over a slight hangover first...?!

We use small sandbags, works well with no real harm if you hit somebody.

What you forgot may have been the groundtackle and how divers lift your anchor if you had to use it coming in. We have discussed this before but can´t find it now...
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Old 11-18-2006, 07:51 AM   #25
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line to ancor chain

Why are lines used from the bow to the anchor chain when at anchor. See link for photo.
http://www.yacht-images.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Kogo-Alstom-Marine&id=MYKOGO049&op=modload&name=gallery&file=i ndex&include=view_photo.php

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Old 11-18-2006, 07:58 AM   #26
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Hi,

Thos lines are called "Snubbing LInes" and are used to prevent the contact between the stem or in the case of Kogo the Bulbous Bow which is just visible in that picture. The Chain rubbing over either the stem or bulb as the boat swings/sails around will cause damage to the paint/filler/both and cause noise.
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Old 11-18-2006, 08:06 AM   #27
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thanks for your reaction k1w1.
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:08 AM   #28
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As supplement to K1W1's comments:

Today, "properly-built" superyachts have well-designed and probably over-engineered anchor-handling systems. These tend to be very sturdy windlasses, often derived from those installed on merchant ships (but with a suitable "yacht finish"), combined with very heavy-duty "chain stopper" systems. On many earlier superyachts, the chain literally came out of the hawse-pipe directly onto the windlass with negligible angle-change or distance, which subjected the windlass to the full forces when the yacht was at anchor in sometimes extreme sea-conditions. Any "chain-stopper" was an after-thought. In the early '90s, I was called aboard an 80ft Dutch motor-sailer after they had problems, having been on an understandably short-scope in the crowded bay of Cannes one summer's day when there was a heavy swell running. The windlass casing had shattered, separating at the 4 feet through which solid bolts secured the windlass through the deckhead. All that had kept the windlass from going overboard were the (extremely-solid Dutch-built) foredeck railings...the windlass was an Italian-built Lofrans btw.

The "whole point" about putting a "snubbing line" on the anchor chain was (and still is IMHO) is not subjecting the windlass itself to the full stresses of a vessel whilst it's at anchor. Generally speaking, they're not designed for this. They're engineered to pick up a certain weight of anchor and chain. That's why, in all except the most benign conditions, a skipper would "motor upto the hook" whilst raising the anchor. In the very olden days, snubbing would have involved taking the chain off the windlass and securing it around a suitably strong bollard. These days, a properly-designed "chain-stopper" system avoids this. Otherwise, you're left with the only suitable alternative: using a synthetic mooring line made secure around a strong bollard or mooring bitts and attached to the chain with the proper hook.

My 2 cents worth...
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