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Cooling Water Flow Alarms

Discussion in 'Technical Discussion' started by Kafue, Jan 8, 2014.

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  1. Kafue

    Kafue Senior Member

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    Following up on the thread regarding the Heat Exchanger failure a short time ago, I posted a question about alarms that warn the skipper of lack of cooling water flow BEFORE the engines send an overheat alarm and the damage is already done.
    Seems to be a very logical way to protect the engines without too much cost involved.

    There were a few suggestions and I am looking at this product:
    AQUALARM :: 13114 Large Capacity Cooling Water Flow Detectors $95.00

    Any other advice or suggestions?
    My raw water inlet measures:
    Internal Diameter 3" (75mm)
    External Diameter 3 3/4" (83mm)

    Thanks in advance
  2. Fishtigua

    Fishtigua Senior Member

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  3. Kafue

    Kafue Senior Member

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    Thanks Fish,
    I can't find anything with a 3" diameter, plus I want an alarm to the flybridge, although site window is a start.
    Which brings another question: Why not have a sight glass for the impeller on the raw water pump?
  4. Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    You don't necessarily need a full sized, full flow, device. If you use raw water to supply a shaft seal, there are small flow switches that will monitor that flow for example. A flow switch in the transmission cooler hose will do the same.
  5. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    Or a pressure gauge will work as well.
  6. Kafue

    Kafue Senior Member

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    Good idea, will check this out. Would be a lot less trouble to install as well as cheaper.
  7. Chasm

    Chasm Senior Member

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    That datasheet contains a lot of information. </sarcasm>

    It has been mentioned here and in the first thread, a pressure switch or gauge somewhere behind the pump. That can be really easy if there are already threaded and capped holes in the coolant circuit. Which is most likely the case.
    Remember that pressure is depending on engine rpm. The same is true for flow.

    An option for wet exhausts is to install a temperature switch on the exhaust mixer. The idea is that if no water get injected the exhaust temperature will rise very quickly and thus trip the switch and sound the alarm before the engine has time to overheat. After all the thermal mass of the mixer is much smaller than the engine.

    While you are running wires. ;) Yet another way to prolong the life of the engine is to install a pyrometer. Measuring the exhaust temperature at the manifold and knowing the engine specs gives a good indication of the actual engine load. Again, not too complex if there is already a capped port.
    A pyrometer as used on diesel engines is just a thermocouple with a remote gauge, so that is certainly not rocket science either.
  8. Kafue

    Kafue Senior Member

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    Thanks.
    The simpler and most resilient system will be the one I install.
    I once owned "state of the art" MAN engines and there were far to many times that alarms screamed, the engine cut out and every time it was a false alarm. Some of these occasions was the exhaust temp sensor.
    In fact the alarm followed by the shut downs became a software problem in their own right!
  9. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Risor temp sensors

    Working on a Ray now that almost overheated. It had the temp switches on the risers. Bad design in this case, the thermal-switches are normally open and close when hot. Thru the years the crimps and wires failed. No riser over temp alarm.
    I liked the system at first and may incorporate it in the future with normally closed thermal-switches driving a relay before the alarm.
  10. bernd1972

    bernd1972 Senior Member

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    Some wires, a piezo alarm buzzer and a simple temperature alarm sensor installed in the exhaust hose rigth behind the elbow will do. If your sea water flow in the cooling system goes down the amount of sea water for cooling the exhaust flow will go down and temperature will go up before the situation becomes critical for the engine.
  11. bernd1972

    bernd1972 Senior Member

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    ...besides that thereĀ“s a simple cure for oxidation problems. Gold-plated terminals help a lot...
  12. Capt Bill11

    Capt Bill11 Senior Member

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    These go up to 3".

    http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec5/PDF/SSA-1G.pdf
  13. Kafue

    Kafue Senior Member

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  14. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    I would put it in the discharge line of the pump.
  15. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    If thinking before the pump. The water should be clean from the strainer protecting the sensor. Installed after the pump; If an impeller blade came loose, it could damage the sensor.

    Then bass ackwards; if it's before the pump and has a leak, air would be drawn into the system and you may never know, if it's after the pump and leaks, then easy to see.

    The MFG may have a preference if the sender would hold up better to low pressure vs high.
  16. Marmot

    Marmot Senior Member

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    The sender counts the rate a magnet passes a sensor, pressure is irrelevant until it exceeds the structural limit of the device.

    Again, use a smaller diameter unit and place it just before the spray ring or reduction gear cooler, anyplace where raw water flows will work.
  17. Capt Bill11

    Capt Bill11 Senior Member

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    Down stream of the pump. In fact I would look at putting it down stream of the engine if you can. That way if you develop a flow restriction in the engine you could catch it.
  18. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    Someone had a DD with this very issue here a few weeks ago.
  19. Old Phart

    Old Phart Senior Member

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    I dunno
    True, but you would be aware that something is not good with the system. ;)
  20. Capt Ralph

    Capt Ralph Senior Member

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    Yes, but you would know it by reduces water flow, not by a damaged water flow sensor.


    Over all; I'm still liking the riser temp sensors idea best. Normal closed sensors driving a relay and alarm. No more clamps and junk in the water circuit, enough clamps & junk already.

    Next best is a water pressure switch T'd into the system after the raw pump.

    Newer gen-sets already use these above.

    Like the paddle wheels below my hull (hull speed), The in-line paddle wheel sensors are just more clamps, a new place for a leak and more mechanical stuff to foul and mess up (and break).

    Maybe one day a cheap Doppler flow sensor would come available (yea, rite, cheap).

    IMO,
    rc