AC Compressor going bad

If the compressor goes bad, it's going to send debris through the entire unit and air handler. How big is the unit? $3600 sounds high especially if you're not replacing the air handler. At '05 you could change the compressor, but it's getting close to 10 years and it's a question as to how long the heat exchanger will last. You may be throwing good money after bad in 3-5 years. A compressor should run run you about $800-1000 installed.

Is this what you are looking for?

"Tecumseh 1-1/4 HP, 208-230V, 1 PH, 15,000 BTU, R22, Hermetic (Reciprocating) Compressor Replacement"

If so, here is where you can get one for $449.92

https://acpartsdistributors.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=58018

@ CSkipR, 140F is a normal temperature for a AC compressor to run at.

@ rcrapps While R22 is considered a high pressure refrigerant ,R410 is 100 to 150 psig higher. The compressors run at a different pressure ratio and you should use a refrigerant designed for the compressor.

I have seen noisy compressors that are running just fine for years....

I have never seen a compressor leak gas, it is usually one of the charging valve or the air handler that has the leak, or one of the connections at the air handler. If your tech is pushing a new condensing unit without having checked th whole system with a sniffer... Get another one! If he added gas but don't look for the source of the leak... Get a new tech!

As to running hot, I ve seen compressor running cooler than others, and all running fine. First, when is the last time the system was descaled. That will affect temp. And also, if the system is a little low, the compressor will run a little hotter.

If the rest of the system is in good shape, and IF the compressor fails, I'd replace just the compressor. They should be able to vacuum the system and clean it up. Every failed compressor I've had replaced has always lasted as long as the original one. If your guy knows what he s doing, replacing a failed compressor is not a problem, and much cheaper.

Given the information above, I'd run it till it dies, if it does. But I would check to where the freon is going.......It could be going out the heat exchanger and into the saltwater and no leak detector will detect anything.

Any place refrigerant leaks you'll see oil also, that's a good indicator. It circulates through the system with the refrigerant .Refrigerant doesn't wear out or need replaced unless there is either a leak or a compressor burnout. that's when the winding get fried and that contaminates the oil & refrigerant that moves though the entire system. That requires a system flush,
"new oil & refrigerant.

Someone installing the wrong capacitor can make a compressor run louder talking higher decibels, vibration & it may use more electricity.(you should check that). You should use the manufacturer specs, but you can go 10% up or down in microfarad in a pinch, the international rating is uF. , microfarad & uF mean the same. Be sure the voltage rating of a capacitor is at least 270v to 440v for a 230-240v compressor. A higher voltage rating on a capacitor won't hurt a thing, it will just cost a little more.

Another post was talking about the availability of R22 compressors. After January 1 2010 all new equipment has to be R410. There is a large inventory of R22 compressors, TEV valves, CPV valves and other parts online for sale. R22 been around for a long time. You can repair existing R22 equipment ,you just can't buy entire new R22 systems anymore.

CSkipR if you run into any problems ,just ask here I would be happy to talk you through them. The only problem is in the HVAC field you can spend quit a bit of money up front on specialty tools if you want to become a DIY guy in this field.

By the way you can get a 608 certification / for class I refrigerants(units with less than 5 pounds of refrigerant) or 608/ type II (units with more than 5 pounds of refrigerant) online. The certificate will allow you to recover and buy refrigerants legally in the USA. The online test is about 30 bucks and will take about 4 hours to read the material and take the test.. It's a open book test that you need to score 80% on. To get a type III or universal (covers all refrigerants) like to work work on low pressure refrigerants like anhydrous ammonia, you need certified instructor time and a proctored test. You don't need a type III.

Good luck on your repair.-

If you want a great place to start HVAC/R/E 101 buy this book.

"Modern Refrigeration and Air Conditioning" by

Andrew D. Althouse
Carl Hturnquist &
Alfred F. Bracciano

I posted the authors names because there is another book with the same title by other authors, not as good). While this is no "marine" AC book, it covers all HVAC/R/E (Heating/Ventilation/Air conditioning/Refrigeration/& Electrical. With all the fundamentals, theory, tools needed , wiring diagrams, schematics. etc... the only main difference in marine use is a water cooled heat exchanger is used to condense the refrigerant in AC but many other refrigeration units use air cooled. , Once you get the basics down, systems won't seem overwhelming to a DIY guy. You can usually find them used on ebay for 25 to 40 dollars used, if you want to save a few bucks over a new edition. Don't buy a book that the copyright is more than 3 or 4 years old or they won't include all the new refrigerants. If you dabble in refrigeration or AC or if you just want to learn, "this will be the best investment you ever make" for knowledge in this field. It's over a 1000 pages .

Walt

+1 for that book

Hi,

I have a 1982 edition of this book, what a great resource it was when I was first started in the business.

My first edition is 1979.

Did you add some oil, also?

Keeps the seals sealed - refrig coolant will last longer in system.

I have recently replaced compressors on many Dometic 16k units. It cost me around USD 300.00 for replacing the compressor and the rebuilt units work great. All the replacement compressors used R22.