Painting Suggestions?

airtox · 02-29-2012, 09:52 AM

My 1997 50 Post has some small spots on the main sliding door and frame between the cockpit and the salon that are bubbling/chipping and slightly oxidizing.

I asked my marina to give me a quote for fixing it and their solution was to pull the entire door (and frame). Strip it and powdercoat it. The cost was unbelievable for the labor.

Does anyone have any ideas that I could do myself without ripping the whole door out. I thought about sanding it down and using some awl grip paint but didn't know if this would give a good enough finish.

Any ideas???

Donzi 54 · 02-29-2012, 10:26 AM

It could be painted but you will need to sand it all down to bare aluminum then use a aluminum primer before painting. But to get the best finish it should be sprayed.

airtox · 02-29-2012, 10:30 AM

Any suggestions on what paint to use? For both the primer and topcoat?

Can I just use a spray can?

AlfredZ · 02-29-2012, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airtox

Any suggestions on what paint to use? For both the primer and topcoat?

Can I just use a spray can?

Try Rust-Oleum primers and Interlux paints, they also come in small spray cans if you prefer that, you can check westmarine's web site, they have a good collection and they answer questions!

Cheers.

Capt J · 02-29-2012, 09:35 PM

You can try a zinc chromate spray can primer, and I like the CAT spray paint, but not sure how it would hold up in sunlight.....if you just want to touch it up.......make sure to get all of the way to bare aluminum. Awlgrip also makes a primer for aluminum, and if you're going to use awlgrip topcoat, use their primer. You could spray a very small area with the little bottle deal.....that screws on top of a glass bottle......Prevo?

RT46 · 02-29-2012, 09:37 PM

what is the door made of?

I have had some very nice results with rust oleum gloss paint brushed over proplerly prepared surfaces. They make a "Marine" paint also that can go over fiberglass and wood.

It is very inexpensive and very easy to work with.

I think a quart is about $12 or less. it would be cheap enough to give it a try.
I buy it in the smaller pint sizes for touch ups, the color is very uniform.

If it is a door, i would suggesting removing the door and laying it flat....
the paint (any paint for that matter) will lay down the best on a flat level surface.

Powder coating is an option, but once it begins to flake and bubble it cannot be repaired.

single part paints can easilly be repaired and touched up.....

give it a try, it might come out alot better than you think....

BEAU · 02-29-2012, 09:54 PM

Airtox

I'd check with some other vendor. A high gloss finish should not be replaced with powder coating IMO. That type of finish wil be very flat against your nicely polished gel coat. Spray cans? The door frame unscrews pretty easily if you are handy. Then take the door to an industrial painter for a good prep and nice two part finish. You'll easily get another 14 years out of the paint job. Way more if you keep the salt off it with regular wash downs. Check the window seal too. Just my 2 cents

bigg1069 · 03-01-2012, 06:58 AM

You might want to look into interlux perfection it's a 2 part that wears really well and is a lot easier to apply than awlgrip. It is also easy to touch up and can be sanded and buffed.

RT46 · 03-01-2012, 07:08 AM

Interlux is a great product and is user friendly.

Beau has a very valid and good suggestion to dismantle it and bring it to a professional sprayer. Shop around for a good one and ask for references.

Donzi 54 · 03-01-2012, 07:25 AM

If you can take it off yourself, I would prep it for painting then just bring it to an auto body shop. Most body shops can easily spray Awlgrip, Imron or any 2 part paint. You may just have to bring them the paint, catalyst and spray reducer.

Capt J · 03-01-2012, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Donzi 54

If you can take it off yourself, I would prep it for painting then just bring it to an auto body shop. Most body shops can easily spray Awlgrip, Imron or any 2 part paint. You may just have to bring them the paint, catalyst and spray reducer.

It is true that most auto body shops can spray any of those. BUT, a lot of times you're best off bringing it to someone who sprays Awlgrip on a regular basis because they're buying large quantities of reducer, primer, catalyst and have it laying around and you're not paying for a full quart of everything (reducer, catalyst, primer, activator, paint).

AlfredZ · 03-01-2012, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt J

It is true that most auto body shops can spray any of those. BUT, a lot of times you're best off bringing it to someone who sprays Awlgrip on a regular basis because they're buying large quantities of reducer, primer, catalyst and have it laying around and you're not paying for a full quart of everything (reducer, catalyst, primer, activator, paint).

For small parts you almost have to pay for nothing, they do have a stock somewhere of everything and in every color of finish. Very good point.

Cheers.

captholli · 03-01-2012, 01:34 PM

Personal preference would be a single stage epoxy based paint like Pettit or Interlux. Easy to handle and easy to either brush or spray depending on how its thinned . Sand it down to bare aluminum where the blisters are, Hit it with prep solve or denatured alcohol & prime two coats of strontonium chromate(zinc Chromate) (Rattle cans) / spray cans , Sand the whole frame down with 280 grit trimite or wet dry. Purchase a couple of pre-valve spray heads with bottles and prime the low spots where you sanded down to the bare alloy. Prime the entire frame and sand with 320 grit once fully dry. Wipe with wet cloth or denatured to find out how fair the finish is / If your satisfied with the over all build of the primer than load your top coat color and add spray reducer/ thinner to manufactures specs. Apply a mist coat and let sit for 30 min and then spray cover coat and let fully dry or off gas till next day. Sand with 320 grit paper and apply top coat again.This would get maybe three to four years of service but if your looking for something with longer life than you going to deal with a linier uerathane product like Awl-Grip or Imron 4000 All of these supplies can be found at a good marine chandler and the majority can be found at an auto paint or part store to save $$

AlfredZ · 03-01-2012, 01:40 PM

Captain, you made me droll for finding me a piece of frame and working on it! Good job.

Cheers.

airtox · 03-02-2012, 10:22 AM

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I went to the interlux website and watched some application videos. I think I am going to sand down the bad spots to bare metal, then lightly sand the entire door and frame, use the recommeded primer with sanding in between coats, and then top coat with the interlux one-part polyurethane. I think it is a good suggestion to take the door and frame off the boat to get the best results but then if I go to that trouble I might as well get it done by a pro. hmmmmm....... maybe I should try leaving it installed and try touching up small areas and see how it turns out. If it is no good I can always sand it down and start over.

Thanks again to everyone for the ideas.