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Considering a new Ocean Alexander 80ft - Any comments?

 
 
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohawk
Give me your email and I'll send you pics. If this is what a light sanding does, than why did OA just tell me a light sanding each year keeps the decks last longer? No one expects vaneer decking at that optional price.
Someone gave you bad advice. When you sand you take away wood. First off is the pours that hold your oil. In Florida you probably need to oil it monthly, and once a year or so clean it with chemicals (depending on use). If it gets to a point where that doesn't work use brass wool to get into the pours. I once watched a guy using a power sander on an older Post's cockpit cap rail. After that oil only stayed on for about a week. There's a couple of good threads here on caring for teak. Check them out.
In the old days teak would be 3/8" to 1/2". You won't find that today with the price of teak unless the owner has money to burn. That also may be the source of your problems with OA, unrealistic expectations combined with a person that didn't know how to communicate with you properly, because they're a pretty good company from what I've heard.
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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A thousand words

see attached
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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more pics 1/16 down

Lots of dismay my seasoned yatchsman onboard
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hi,

How thick is the Teak on your boat?

I have seen light caulking deposits on teak exactly like your first photo after a first light sand on a new deck ( not sure how thick those in your photo are), they soon disappear when the sanding takes another cut off the top.
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:34 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The caulk overrun looks like it was sanded below the level of the caulk. A little brass wool will take that off, but it will come back over. The cracks are another thing. It looks like it's been sanded through the wood. In the second pic I can't see any pours at all. It looks like you'll be replacing. Check those other threads. I believe someone quoted some prices if I remember right. Pour a stiff drink before you read them though. BTW, that looks like about the same thickness we had on the 50 Viking SC. Nothing like what you'll find on boats from the 50's. That's our disposable society. It only needs to look good through the sale.
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:37 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thickness

The deck measures just under 3/4 now after LIGHT sanding. A number of planks have been replaced and were not good sq planks. I've had some good shipwrights opinions. The problem is the continued discovery of more compromised planks and the effect to the rest of the deck. It is what it is.
Sure looked good at first. Puddles should have givin it away. Now we know.
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Old 03-31-2010, 05:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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The pics

The pics posted are older, and of planks now replaced. The good photos are to big to send other than by email. They tell even more.

By the way, this is not the only issue of this size they have chosen to ignor. I just am particularly irritated by the recent of the 5 plus manager that they sent. They keep sending out the new and improved manager for lip service on various issues. Where do all the ex managers go? The problems stay.
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Old 03-31-2010, 06:57 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Blistering in keel, they had recall but never told me or others I know. I just fixed it. FB chairs installed w/o leveling..200lb men broke up both w/i 3 yrs
Teak cap rail exceeds the rubrail. Most with cap rails have added extended rubrail (at their cost)to prevent damage. Now they are starting to understand east coast issues -like pilings. What year do you have? Many systems reinstalled; bow thruster, stablizers. rudders, engines replaced,
Showers seams leak. Shower sump pumps have been rebuilt twice but no avail without reengineering height of hoses.
All painted aluminum painted (doors vents) twice but still blisters
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:09 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mohawk
The deck measures just under 3/4 now after LIGHT sanding.

3/4" - 3-4mm - 3/4 cm ? Just looking for clarification.
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:33 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Mohawk- I find your story and images fascinating.
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:12 PM   #26 (permalink)
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What I'm I missing? I currently in a discussions with an OA rep. and I am at an inpass.
What do you see in the pics (thousand words)
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:06 PM   #27 (permalink)
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What I'm I missing? I currently in a discussions with an OA rep. and I am at an inpass.
What do you see in the pics (thousand words)
I see damage that appears to have been done by over sanding. Wouldn't consider it an OA problem or manufacturer's defect. Do you have a captain or detailer? If so, I'm surprised that they didn't stop you. Or was the sanding done by them? Was it done with a block, a hand or a power sander? It doesn't look like a block was used. If it was done by the detailer you should talk with them about that damage. When you said earlier that it "measures just under 3/4 now", I assume you don't mean inches. Correct? What you usually find these days is about 1/4" or less. One look at that should tell you there's no wood to spare. Some of the other things you mentioned (except the rubrail and the paint) are more troubling though.
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:22 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Thicknes

The decks thickness messures 1/2 to 3/4 inches, closer to 1/2 than 3/4.

The teak stock was a big selling point of OA.
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Does that thickness surprise you? Should one professional sanding be all you get?
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:43 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Does that thickness surprise you? Should one professional sanding be all you get?
Yes it surprises me. OA didn't scrimp. What's your theory on what they did wrong in giving you 1/2" to 3/4" teak? How do you sand through 1/2 in of wood with a "light" sanding? What was your "professional's" explanation for how he got through that much wood?
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