Marinas & Channels: East Coast USA
by Capt. David Reams
*Disclaimer – the following list is not a complete guide. It contains marinas and ports visited by the author. Comments are subjective and are based on experience only. If a marina or port is omitted, it is only because the author has not visited the same.
First, get the Maptech Atlantic Coast Embassy Guide. This book has marina descriptions, locations, and chartlets and phone numbers for the majority of the stops along the eastern seaboard.
Georgia... St. Simon’s Island: A nice stop on the ICW between St. Augustine and Savannah. Golden Isles Marina (912-634-1128) is our choice as it has floating docks, easy approach and fair protection. It is also the only marina we have ever visited with a gun shop located in the marina shopping complex, welcome to the south.
Savannah: This is a true gem and one of our favorite cities anywhere. Old southern charm abounds with friendly people, the last remnant of the antebellum south. The old Palmer Johnson marina, now called the Thunderbolt Marina (912-356-3875) is a favorite stop. Located on the Wilmington River in Thunderbolt, Georgia about six miles from downtown Savannah. Enter the Wilmington River through Wassaw Sound (31 56.6N, 80 52.9W) The marina has rental cars available and delivers Krispy Kreame donuts and a newspaper to your boat each morning. The marina is on the grounds but is not part of the Thunderbolt Marine shipyard.
Savannah Yacht Club: (912-897-1314), located across the river and ¾ of a mile downstream from PJ’s , this is a beautiful club. Visiting yachts must be members of a recognized yacht club to get moorage.
Hyatt Regency Docks: (912-238-1234) the hotel is located on the Savannah River in downtown Savannah right on the River Walk. The docks are floating and easy to reach but make sure and moor port side to dock to keep the bow into the river current. One year we saw a 20 plus foot log jammed into a yacht’s rudders while moored stern up river.
South Carolina... Hilton Head, S. Carolina: (on the ICW) Just a few miles north of Savannah this is a resort development, not nearly as nice as Savannah but quite famous for it’s golf courses and social activities. Harbor Towne Marina Resort (800-635-8410) is the nicest of the marinas in the area. A little cutesy for our tastes (think Seaport Village in San Diego).
Beaufort, S. Carolina. (on the ICW) A lovely stop between Savannah and Charleston this is an old town with easy walking access and plenty of charm. We have stayed at the Downtown Marina (843-524-4422) and found it friendly and close to the historic section of town.
Charleston, S. Carolina: (32 39.6N, 79 41.0 W) Another great southern city to visit. The carriage tour of town is a “must do” for the first time visitor. The City Marina (843-723-5098) is our favorite place to stay. The marina offers shuttle service to downtown and the West Marine store. Ashley Marina (803-722-1996), located right next to The City Marina has lots of space and another great location.
If you draw less than 7 feet of water and decide to go up the ICW, the stretch through the Carolinas is the most beautiful section of the entire run. North of Charleston you will want to stop at the Wacca Wache Marina (800-395-6694). You can’t miss the bright blue roof on the marina office and store. On a chart you will find Wacca Wache opposite Murrells Inlet on the Atlantic. There is no opening to the ocean from here. You are committed until you reach Wrightville Beach in North Carolina.
North Carolina...
A day run north on the ICW from Wacca Wache you will reach Wrightsville Beach, N. Carolina. We stay at the Bridgetender Marina (252-256-6550), just south of the drawbridge on the west side of the ICW.
The next days run will take you to Beaufort, N. Carolina, this will be a long day probably close to 10 hours so get an early start from Bridgetender’s. Beaufort Docks (252-728-2503) is located downtown and usually has plenty of transient space available with a couple of days notice. This is a cute little town with interesting history (Blackbeard the pirate was killed in the sound just off town) and a very good maritime museum.
If you are cruising in fair weather on the outside north from Charleston, Beaufort, N. Carolina (not to be confused with Beaufort, S. Carolina) is your last chance to duck into the ICW before reaching Cape Hatteras. Enter south of Cape Lookout (34 34.9N, 76 41.6W). If the weather is starting to build up a sea I recommend ducking into Beaufort and either taking the ICW to Norfolk, Virginia or waiting for a calm day to get around Hatteras and up to Norfolk on the outside.
On the ICW the run from Beaufort, N. Carolina to Norfolk is one of my least favorites. I usually try to push it and make Coinjock in one day but this almost never works. Plan on stopping in Belhaven. River Forrest Marina and Resort (252-943-2151) features a fuel dock, several transient berths and a lovely old manor house. Belhaven has a great ACE hardware store where the owner brags “this is the only store in the world where you can find caviar, metric stainless steel fasteners and rat poison in the same place”, we believe him. The town looks like something out of a Steven King novel. We have stopped twice further north at Alligator River Marina (252-796-0333), but the last time the channel had shoaled up a bit and it was touch and go getting out in the morning. It is a cute little place on the main highway with good fuel prices (the same pumps service the truck stop). I would call first and see if the channel was dredged.
Coinjock: This is a narrow little stretch of river with face docks on each side of the ICW. Coinjock Marina (252-453-3271) always has the cheapest fuel prices in the south. The restaurant also serves great prime rib. If there is no space at the Coinjock marina there usually is space just across the river at Midway Marina (252-453-3625).
From Coinjock north is a slight bend in the river and it is very shallow outside the channel. Stay in the middle of the channel through out the bend. As you proceed north will go through a small set of locks to the Chesapeake Bay entering Norfolk, VA and Hampton Roads. This is very interesting but slow going; it will probably take you 8 or more hours to travel 40 to 50 miles from Coinjock to Norfolk.
Chesapeake Bay note: Vessels of greater than 300 GRT are required to take a pilot prior to entering the Chesapeake Bay; foreign flagged vessels of greater then 100 GRT are required to take a pilot for transits north of Baltimore.
Virginia... Norfolk: Weather coming north from the ocean and entering through Hampton Roads around Cape Henry (36 49.0N, 75 45.6W), or up the ICW from Coinjock, Norfolk is an interesting and fun stop. We try to stay at the Waterside Marina (757-625-2000) as it is close to shopping centers and a nice part of town. Other marinas in the area are Tidewater Yacht Marina (757-393-2525) and Colonna’s Shipyard (757-545-2414).
Maryland...
North of Norfolk we have not stopped in Virginia instead heading on to either Solomon’s Island, Annapolis, MD or up the Potomac to Washington DC. The Chesapeake is shallow so stay in or near the main shipping channels until you reach the bay you wish to explore.
Solomon’s Island: a beautiful small island offers several marinas and fuel docks. The Harbor Island Marina (410-326-3441) is small but close to the entrance of the inlet and has a fuel dock. We have also stayed at Calvert Marina (410-326-4251) but it is on the opposite side of the inlet and makes for a long walk to restaurants and shopping. This is a cute stop for a night but we have never felt the need to stay longer.
The Potomac River is well marked but it is about 90 miles up to Washington D.C. so plan an early departure to insure a daylight arrival. In Washington we spent two months at Gangplank Marina (202-554-5000), it is run by nice people and is an easy walk to the Metro station or about 7 blocks walk to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum and Capitol Mall. From our aft deck we could see the Jefferson Memorial and the Washington Monument. There are not a lot of transient slips so reserve early. Capital Yacht Club (202-488-8110) is located right next to Gangplank in the same basin. If there is no space at either of these marinas it’s OK as anchoring out is permitted in the basin and you may make arrangements for dinghy moorage at Gangplank Marina.
St. Michaels: South of Annapolis, but on the opposite side of the Chesapeake is St. Michaels. This is a small town at the end of a twisting, dog legged channel but worth the effort to visit; home of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and some of the best Crab restaurants around. We stayed at the St. Michaels Harbor Inn (410-745-9001) on the first visit and anchored in the outer harbor on the second. You may use the dinghy dock at the Maritime Museum or the town dock for small tenders while anchored out. There is beautiful old architecture and great restaurants, a nice place to spend a couple of days.
Annapolis: Moving on up the Chesapeake brings us to Annapolis, MD, home of the US Naval Academy. This is a very yachting oriented town with a great history and tons of sailboats. We try to stay at the Yacht Basin Co. (410-263-3544) or Annapolis City Dock (410-263-7973). Either or these marinas are right in the heart of old Annapolis and within easy walking distance to almost everything. If you get to Annapolis, plan on an extra day to tour the US Naval Academy. This is a fascinating piece of American history with an excellent daily tour schedule.
Baltimore: We love Baltimore! Go all the way into the bay to the Inner Harbor East marina (410-625-1700) located within easy walking distance to the Baltimore Maritime Museum, Baltimore Aquarium, the ESPN Sports Zone and Hard Rock Café as well as the shopping malls and Fell’s Point. This is a great marina with floating docks, nice staff and easy access. Really one of our favorite stops on the trip north or south.