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'74 Chris Craft Roamer Fuel Valves and Main Engine Strainers

Discussion in 'Chris Craft Roamer Yacht' started by grandpagary, Feb 21, 2010.

  1. grandpagary

    grandpagary New Member

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    Feb 12, 2010
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    Location:
    Guntersville, Alabama
    I own a 60' 1974 Chris Craft Roamer Motoryacht, Hull Number 503. I have been unable to locate the fuel tank equalization valves. I need to balance the fuel between the two tanks. I've located several valves but some of the tags are missing so I cannot determine their function. As a matter of fact if anyone has a schematic of the fuel system I certainly could use a copy. The Mariner's Museum does not have this schematic, I've already checked.
    I would also like to find out what kind of strainers were used for the main engine water intakes. I can find no markings on them. Most of the other strainers are Groco and are maked with the model number and size but not these.
    If anyone out there has a good knowledge of these boats and technical data I would love to hear from you.
    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Gary
  2. q240z

    q240z New Member

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    zsedr
    Hi grandpagary, and welcome aboard.

    I have the same problem with the fuel manifold valve tags on my 52' Connie--even the ones that are still there have cryptic names that don't intuitively make sense. What I ended up doing is just following the lines to see where they went.

    Do you have a fuel manifold, or just individual valves in remote, seemingly random locations? Got pix?
  3. fuel valves

    On my 1974 58 foot Hatteras with 12-71s, I found the valves under a hinged step leading to the staterooms aft. The valves allow you to draw from #1 and return to #2 etc etc. Good luck! How about some pics?? ws

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    Hope you can read the labels! If not its a 10mgp pic and you should be able to enlarge it!
  4. grandpagary

    grandpagary New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
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    15
    Location:
    Guntersville, Alabama
    Thanks for the replies gentlemen. No fuel manifold - that makes too much sense! just individual valves in remote, seemingly random locations. I think I've got it figured out - there is no equalization valve per se but I've discovered that I can shut off one tank and feed both engines out of the other. IMHO Chris Craft did a lousy job on a lot of the systems on this boat. I could have been made so much easier without a lot of cost added to the build. Simple things like a fuel manifold, main engine and transmission oil change manifold, etc. etc. etc. Oh well - not much anyone can do about it now. As far as following lines it's kind of like following wiring in a car (although cars are easier :)) - it just disappears under the deck and there is no access to where the fuel lines connect to the tank. I would have to tear out the bed and a lot of cabinets to get access to it. It's difficult to make sense of the lines if you can't follow them from end to end. BTW, I found out that the seacock for the main engine strainer (at least one of them) doesn't shut off. It's still dripping a little but can't figure out any way to remove the valve until the boat is next hauled. Hadn't planned on doing that for a while..... Anyway thanks for the advice and tips. Nice to know that I'm not the only one out here living with some of the frustrations we encounter on boats. BTW I haven't figured out how to make jpegs small enough to attach in this blog.
  5. q240z

    q240z New Member

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    zsedr
    If you save pix to photobucket, they have resize and other editing features you might like.
  6. seacocks

    If the valves are Apollo valves, you are S-O-L. They get gouged and thats that. If they are Groco seacocks, work them back and forth a bunch of times.This may clean up the seat. If theres a grease fitting lube them too.
    I also have it on good authority, that if you hook up a shop vac and blow out the vac's exhaust port through the strainer, youll have a fairly decent chance of having them seal again. An FM?? ws
  7. Shangri-La

    Shangri-La Senior Member

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    Pensaukee, WI
    One online program you might use to reduce the size is Pixenate http://pixenate.com/ . If you resize your pictures to 640x480 or smaller then resave them to your computer, they will usually fit.
  8. grandpagary

    grandpagary New Member

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    Pixel Reduction Programs

    Thanks Kenny. I'll look into it.
  9. grandpagary

    grandpagary New Member

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    Location:
    Guntersville, Alabama
    Again thanks for the replies folks. Bill - I don't know what kind of strainers they are. Can't find any names or numbers on them (of course they are in a relatively inaccessable location) but I've looked at everything I can using a mirror and reaching around behind them can't feel any raised letters or numbers on the casting. They are large valves, faucet type handles instead of levers, no grease fittings. From what I'm hearing it looks like I may be looking at replacing the entire seacock at next haul out. Guess I won't really know anything until then. I was working on the forward head Electra Scan unit yesterday and also found the seacock for the discharge is extremely stiff. Had to use a pipe wrench to open and close it. Tried to work it to free it up and it didn't get any better. Guess I'll be replacing that one too. Heck - maybe I'll just replace them all!!! Oh the joys of owning an old boat.....:rolleyes:
  10. Valves

    If those valves have "wheels" on them they are gate valves and will freeze up when you need them to operate at the worst time. Apollo valves are ball type and usually work pretty well. Groco seacocks are like a gas cock... all metal and prone to locking up also.
    My 58 Hatteras has 15 seacocks, and before I left new orleans for chicago I had ALL of them operational; exercise is the key here... tap them with a mallet back and forth MANY times to loosen them up. DO NOT BANG ON THEM WITH A HAMMER !!! When you haul out, see if they are Groco type... the can be dis-assembled, cleaned and re-lapped to work like new. ws
  11. valves etc...

    I moved my strainers last year to a remote mount. They were attached directly to the seacocks with a short nipple. A real pain to get at the packing also! A true seacock will have a 3 bolt flange inside, with a screw in mushroom head from outside. Never attach a valve to a straight thru-hull nipple!

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  12. hat4349

    hat4349 Senior Member

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    Grandpagary send me a PM telling me what kind of computer you have and I will send you instructions on how to use the software on it to resize your pictures right on your PC. It is easy and you can then save them with a different file name.
  13. grandpagary

    grandpagary New Member

    Joined:
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    15
    Location:
    Guntersville, Alabama
    Valves etc

    Hi Bill,
    Thanks for the info on the gate valves. They move in and out but don't shut off the water. Don't know if they have O rings and they are gone or if the valve is corroded away. Great idea on the remote strainers. When we haul out I look into relocating them as they are difficult to get to in their present location.
    When you took your Hattras to Chicago did you have problems with bridge clearance? I understand there is a 19' fixed bridge in the Ship Channel. My boat is pretty tall, about 20.5' with the mast down. I can disconnect the mast and lower it a little more and lower the bimini but I'm not sure I'll be able to get below 19'.
    Looks like I'm pretty much stuck on the strainer valves until I can get hauled out. Didn't want to do that yet and had planned to haul out when I do the electronics upgrade as I'll be replacing transducers, etc.
    Again thanks for the information and advice and also to the folks who have sent me information on how to reduce the size of photos. I could probably figure it out but have been busy fixing my ElectraScan unit and installing a couple of air conditioners.
  14. North??

    Are youbringing the big guy up here or staying in G-ville? I can look out my window and see that bridge... I live in Lemont,Il. I had to drop my radar arch and the bimini cleared by about 3 inches; pretty darn close.
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    [​IMG]
    Those old gate valves probably have crud on the seats/wedge. Try snugging them a TAD more with a big pair of channel locks. ws
  15. YachtForums

    YachtForums Administrator

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    Dear YachtsmanBill,

    I sent you a Private Message regarding hotlinked images, but you continue with disregard for our protocols. Why is this?

    Below is a copy of the same.

  16. grandpagary

    grandpagary New Member

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    Location:
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    Valves etc

    Hi Bill,

    We plan to do some traveling. The only real reason we're in Guntersville is that we bought the boat here and once we started working on her we just ended up staying and staying and staying for a lot longer than we had planned. From what I'm reading it looks like the Loop is problematic due to shallow water so we're thinking of heading north. My wife's daughter lives in Duluth and we'd like to spend some time on the Great Lakes. Either that or wait until next winter and head south.
    What route did you take from New Orleans to Chicago?
    Pretty boat, looks every bit as tall as mine. I don't have a radar arch but the mast is fairly tall. It's on a hydraulic system to raise it and it free falls (slowly:) down. I can disconnect it and lower it another couple of feet. I was thinking of a rig like you built to hold it. Thanks for the tips on the gate valves. I'll do as you suggest. I think I got the photo attachment thing figured out. I attached a couple - we'll see what happens!

    Attached Files:

  17. North !!

    We ran the TennTom to the Cumberland/Ohio route. AVOID Padookie!!Made Mobile to Iuka in 6 days then spent 3 months there and in the spring lrft for home. The Mississippi was TWENTY FEET ABOVE FLOOD STAGE !! What a scary ride that was especially with a bad trans bearing. Our 12 mph cruise speed dropped to around 4 between Cairo and StL.
    My Hatteras aka "the sub" was a hurricane Rita sinker that I bought as insurance salvage in April '06. Man was she ruff! Made that trip with NO HEADS or generator either!
    What insite can you give me on the A.C. system? I need some used parts... ws

    Attached Files:

  18. Duluth

    The Duluth trip is a walk in the park. I used to engineer for a tugboat guy up there and made the Chicago-Duluth-Detroit trip a few times. I recommend late July-August for Lake Superior! ws
  19. Twister!!

    Was your Roamer the one that narrowly missed the tornado damage?? Somewhere I have some pics of the boat next door with corrugated roofing all over it! ws
  20. grandpagary

    grandpagary New Member

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    Location:
    Guntersville, Alabama
    North / Duluth / Twister

    Holy Cow Bill. You're a better man than I am tackling a project like that! Jeez, I thought my boat was rough! What did you have to do to the engines to get them running? Regarding air conditioners - I see that you have CruiseAire units. Parts should be available through Dometic / CruiseAire. I guess the issue is the break even point on parts vs new units. I have found that it's more cost effecient to just buy new units. I have now replaced five of the seven units on this boat. Went with Flagship Marine because I like the internal heat coils (no reverse cycle problems), they are "commerical quality" and also the fact that the U.S. Navy and Coast Guard use them. They are cheaper than CruiseAire but a little more expensive than Mermaid units. I actually had one CruiseAire unit original to the boat that ran until this year but don't expect these new units to last that long. They don't build them like they used to. Thanks for the info on Superior and Duluth. We'd probably plan for July as we'd want to have a little time there before we needed to get out before winter sets in! Also thanks for the routing information. Still worried about that bridge though :confused: No, we weren't the Roamer that nearly got damaged in the twister. That was the "Shelley" that was owned by the Lindstrom family. She just sold and I understand she is enroute to Chattanooga.