[jflongwell]

I am finding a lot of interior leaks. They appear to be coming from the joint between the metal deck and wooden quarter round molding. Any advise? I was advised to remove the entire quarter round and re-caulk. I doubt if the wooden trim would be in any condition to be reused. Any advise as to a good method of removal and what to replace it with?

Planning to install a vacu-flush system shortly.

John

[Shangri-La]

Mine was doing that too so I took the bottom window trim off to see what was under it.



These are pictures of what I'm doing about it.
http://restoration.owfish.com/

[q240z]

Originally Posted by jflongwell

I doubt if the wooden trim would be in any condition to be reused. Any advise as to a good method of removal and what to replace it with?

Hi John.

The additional time it takes to nondestructively remove that quarter round is not worth it. There's no originality value in it. On my 46 Roamer, we pulled the screws and carefully removed it with a proper wood chisel. New 1" mahogany quarter round costs $3/ft or so at the local wood store.

Alternatively, if you've got the equipment to do it, use a quarter round router bit and rip off what you need from a 4/4 mahogany plank. I would advise against using any wood other than mahogany unless you use a species that has the same degree or better of rot resistance.

[jflongwell]

What do you think of using a polymer quarter round?
What adheasive did you use?
John

[q240z]

I'm a fan of using original or better materials. The mahogany on my boat held up just fine for 40 years, so it's kind of hard to fault it. I suppose there might be a plastic product out there that would do as well, but I'd want to make sure it's compatible with the bedding compound I use (Sikaflex, in this application). I'd also be absolutely certain it didn't grow or shrink with heat and cold. It should also have the same or better rigidity. Fiberglass quarter round would probably do the trick, if it exists, but I don't know if it would be superior to mahogany.

[Savasa]

Greetings,
I would highly reccomend Dolphinte (sp?) as a bedding compound for your mouldings. As opposed to Sikaflex, Boatlife or any 3M product, it is not an adhesive, when it comes time to remove it, to repair or whatever, it will be an easy job.
Savasa

[q240z]

One funny thing I've noticed about Dolphinite is that it remains soft and expands with heat. If that quarter round is painted, as it is on my Roamer, you might experience the Dolphinite sqeezing out of the joint over time on hot summer days and breaking the paint in the process.

Everything's a trade off. lol

ymmv

[Savasa]

Hiya,
Yup, you're totaly correct Q. Dolphinite DOES have it's "quirks" BUT when you have to remove fittings/mouldings, and you will, trust me on this, it's the very fact the the D' will still be pliable which will allow you to do the removal without breaking anything up.
I've found the "best" proceedure is to apply the D' liberally, let the excess ooze out, wait a day and then scrape off the excess followed by a wipedown of solvent.
Again YMMV but I like the D'
One further point.....To the best on my knowledge, CC's used African mahogany. When replacing mouldings etc. the cheapest and most available moulding/plank is Phillipine or Luan Mahogany. IMHO this stuff is garbage and will not last! If at all possible, buy Honduras Mahogany (or better) and if necessary have your planks milled to make 1/4 or whatever.
Peter

[q240z]

That's a good point.

I always get Honduras boards for my Connie and have many left over that I'm using on the Roamer. But even then I've been in the habit of cold molding them (especially the edges, ends, and screw holes) with a nice coat of thinned epoxy or CPES before installation. This is similar in principle to applying red lead or other protective coating as they did in the olden days, but with better saturation, I believe.

As an upside, bedding compounds and paint seem to stick better to CPES than just plain old wood.

[Oneiros]

Originally Posted by q240z

That's a good point.

I always get Honduras boards for my Connie and have many left over that I'm using on the Roamer. But even then I've been in the habit of cold molding them (especially the edges, ends, and screw holes) with a nice coat of thinned epoxy or CPES before installation. This is similar in principle to applying red lead or other protective coating as they did in the olden days, but with better saturation, I believe.

As an upside, bedding compounds and paint seem to stick better to CPES than just plain old wood.

hi how is the project running.We have the boat at sea but this weekend we shall bee on shore .job to do home and the wether is not so fine .
Erik

[captdirk]

I'm in the middle of this very job. The quarter rounds were impossible to get off neatly, so figure on replacing them. There was a small section aft which curved around a corner - save this if you can since it's going to be tough to make a new one. Or at least time consuming.
I also found corrosion in between the hull flange and the cabin side planks (just under the quarter rounds). I applied rust converter and got paint into the gap as best I could, and installed new bolts since the old had rusted. In this seam I used 50 year polyurethane sealant from Home Depot - nasty, sticky and cheap. It stays water tight no matter what the source of water is, ie it doesn't know it's on a boat and doesn't care.
Good luck!

[jflongwell]

Thanks for the tip.

I have been taking the hunt and caulk method this summer with fairly good results. I have found a flowable RTV window sealant can sometimes work. I had a leak around the forward hatch after I had removed it and sealed it with 4200 that the RTV fixed quite well.

We took a Seneca-Cayuga canal trip two weeks ago and the vacu-flush system worked like a champ!!!

John