two questions...

what is the make/kind of toilet?
i have installed a marine elegence toiolet on one of previous boats and will do so again but the heads on my 405 are wroking fine and am not going to replace anything that still is working.

what kind of fridge make/model? fridge could be out of gas probably will not find a port for charging unless someone else had installed it. it can be done (refrigerant saddle port) the previous owner had done this on mine so right now am adding some gas to it about every 5-6 months, i have access to gas and guages so to me no biggie but i will milk it out for awhile before buying a new fridge. does the compressor come on on ac or dc may have to pull it out so you can tell, does it cool at all inside the freezer with your hand anywhere?
new? theres different ideas on fridges but a 12vdc/120 will cost ballpark around $1000 and up depending on size and make. you can also use a standard 120 volt unit on genset or invertor can be cheaper but other things are to be considered this way not a big deal but everyones different

Basic question but did you make sure the knob on the inside is turned to colder?

If it's a Raritan straight handled pump toilet, you probably need the rebuilt kit. The main culprit is going to be that the rubber piston seal is worn out allowing foul water to creep back up to open air. The replacement kit is only about $50. and it took care of the problem for us. We'll still squirt some Tilex in the bowl if it's going to sit for a few days or more.

Raritan Phii/Pheii Overh.Kit Pre 6/9 RAR-PHRKII, Boat Parts and Accessories

I would check your joker valve it sounds like it is shot also you may need to change out the hose from the toilet to the tank after awhile they start to give off odour. I received a tip from an experienced captain who spends weeks at sea. Put a cantaloupe in the area where your tank is. Leave it a couple of days and it will absorb the stink. It really works

Do you cut the fruit open or leave it whole? (Hey, I have to ask....I have no idea how it would work so I need all the details. I want to try this trick myself!)

Quick question. Is it a fresh or seawater head? You've gotten good advice about the head, but if it's a seawater head and you're docked in a shallow place with a muck bottom, the "stink" could be coming from the water.

My experience with a fridge is that, yes they can be recharged, but it's generally not worth doing. If it's leaking gas you'll just throw good money after bad unless you find and fix the leak.

And many times the leak is in the coils and the coils are sandwiched inside the fridge and you can't get to them. Once in a while you get lucky.

Do you add a little a/c compressor oil before adding refrigerant?

Tends to keep the seals sealed.

My experience is that cantaloupe don't smell very pretty after being left sitting in a humid, warm, enclosed space for very long. Coffee, ground and unbrewed, is a better idea. High surface area, and a surface chemistry that interacts with odors much more reliably than things like baking soda.

Also, never add bleach to a holding tank system. It will eat any rubber seals you may have, may also cause the holding tank hoses to allow smell to permeate and the most important will mix with the ammonia in urine and create deadly mustard gas.

Read up on Noflex Digestor Black water treatment
It will fix the smells in the hoses
There are a lot of people using it on the Bayliner Silverton,Nohaven, sites you can ask them for feed back

Both of my heads are plumbed to use seawater. What washes down the bowl looks like it came from the blackwater tank. Does anyone use freshwater to flush the head? I had thought of converting the plumbing on my boat to use freshwater. It seems like an easy conversion, plus, the water would be pressurized which would give you more volume.

All of the newer boats use freshwater flush 98% of the time, you could convert it but might need to put an electric solenoid and flow valve to control the flow.

I looked into changing over to freshwater heads on Valhalla, and it's not necessarily a cheap job. Also, if you do any serious cruising, keep in mind that you must carry the water for the head as well as other uses. You don't want to run out of water for your toilet AND your sink while out with the wife and a bunch of her pals.

Please explain...

It seems to me that the flow would be controlled by the electric flush button, would it not? Instead of siphoning water from the valve in the bilge of the boat, you would have a positive pressure from the incoming city water line. I can understand using a pressure reducing valve/fitting inline, but beyond that it seems the head would readily accept the flow of water.

Additionally, this seems like it would be a fairly cheap conversion. I have traced down the lines in my 3607, so correct me anywhere I am wrong. The supply line enters on the port side, forward of the port motor. It is routed through what appears to be a gate valve. From there, it continues through a short section of hose to a tee. One side of the tee goes to the forward head while the other goes to the head in the master stateroom. By closing off that gate valve and introducing a tee, you could easily supply fresh water to the heads. The seawater gate valve would have to be closed to keep fresh water from draining at will, and you would possibly want to use a check valve or simply a valve to keep seawater from contaminating your freshwater, but that seems all.

What am I missing in the above described conversion?

Your toilet utilizes a pump/impellor that pumps the saltwater in and only flows so much, it also utilizes a similar pump on the other side of the shaft usually that has an impellor and pumps the bowl dry. when you are sending that pump 40 psi of pressurized water, you're going to end up with an overflowing toilet bowl. So you need a solenoid that shuts off the freshwater supply when the pump is not running and most likely a water pressure regulator to knock the pressure down to 3 psi or something managable or a valve where you can restrict the flow. Best bet is to just swap out the entire toilet with a new modern one. Some people on here have been very happy with a $500 toilet, there was a thread on it......possibly made by Raritan.

We went with the Raritan Elegance which is set up for fresh or raw water flushing. It is also extremely quiet. For fresh it ties into the pressure water line which should be readily accessible at the vanity water connections. For raw water it uses a separate pump.

Bob

For fresh water, you can also (if possible) connect them direct to the fresh water tank and/or before the fresh water pump.

I installed 2 new Jabsco 37245-1092 Electric Toilet’s, for $ 450,- each (on eBay), and they work fine and everything is included!

We had two Raritan electric heads that used seawater when we bought the boat. In fact one of them had to be rebuilt as a condition of sale after the survey disclosed one to be not working.

We had the same stink on the boat and the bowl water looked, frankly, like it had already been "used". Smelled that way too.

Finally, after much heart-wrenching and gnashing of teeth, we decided to rip them both out and replace with fresh water electric heads, which, after all was installed, cost us $3,000 for the pair. (The gnashing of teeth was due to all the money we had already spent and here we were throwing away two WORKING heads. I don't mind replacing something broken but I hate replacing something that still performs as intended.)

Well.......no more gnashing....we're VERY happy we took the plunge and spent the money. The bowls, are, first of all, "full-size".....my wife used to complain that sitting on the old ones felt like using a soup can as a toilet! Second of all, they look like the toilets at home, very modern looking and the water is of course, crystal clear, not mucky and smelly like the seawater we had before.

If I ever buy another boat with seawater heads, it will be one of the first upgrades I make!

YES....Ed is (as usual) 100% right that you have to be mindful about the fact you are drawing from your fresh water supply every time you flush when not dock-side. But we have made it a point to fill the water tank and pump out every time we re-fuel, and that system had kept us with satisfactory levels in our gas tanks and water tanks and near-empty waste tanks, so it's working for us. The benefits GREATLY out-weigh the use of the water supply and the subsequent need to monitor it more closely, IMHO.


Edited to ADD: For those who may be interested, here's what we got:

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/sealand--masterflush-8100-series-electric-head--P011024353