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54' Bertram Tranny Removal

Discussion in 'Bertram Yacht' started by CaptOz, May 9, 2013.

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  1. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Hello there everyone!

    I was wondering if anyone has ever tried backing off a ZF BW195 from a Detroit Diesel 12V71TI on a vintage Bertram, mid 80's? Mine is an 86.

    The problem I am having is that my flywheel spins freely with a screw driver and does not spin the crank and everything else. I can turn the front of the motor with a pry bar and can see all the cylinders move up and down. Engine did not seize. Anyways, we all know the answer once I back off the tranny.

    What I wanted to know is if it was possible to back it off with out lifting the engine first? The outside Motor mount bracket bolts(pic61) can not be removed unless I lift engine or I am just not see something here.

    Your experiences are welcomed!

    Thanks

    Attached Files:

  2. maverick4

    maverick4 New Member

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    trans

    if youcan spin the flywheel freely and it isn,t turning the engine you will most likely have to pull the gear anyway ,I would plan for this.
  3. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    I have spin Keno Wheels spin slower in Vegas with the same amount of effort.

    Yes, the plan is to slide gear out, just trying to see if there is an easier way of sliding it out than to lift entire engine.

    Thanks for your reply.
  4. Ormond Bert54

    Ormond Bert54 Senior Member

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    I have a 1984 Bertram 54 with the 12V71TI engines but Twin Disc MG514C gears ... My gears were slid back and overhauled in hull without moving the engine as I recall. I have since stopped fooling around with in-hull overhauls. I don't hesitate to take apart the interior, pull up the nice large panels on the floor and haul the engine or transmission out through the back window. I'll do this from cylinder head on up. Of course, the cylinder head can just come out the back door. Good access leads to better work.
  5. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Thanks for the input. I can slide mine back but would have to disconnect the rear engine mounts and support engine at the rear.

    I am hoping my problem can be solved with out taking down engine, but it has to come out, then My wife is going to start picking out the new interior. LOL
  6. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    That is an interesting sounding problem you have there.

    Is it the whole flywheel spinning or just the ring gear ( the toothed bit the starter engages with).

    If its the whole flywheel it can only be one of two things.

    Either all bolts have fallen out or broken or the end of the crank has broken off.

    I would be interested to know what you find when you do get it apart so please post back and let us know.
  7. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Whole Flywheel..

    Yes, I already know.. Im waiting for the drumroll..........

    I have been told that if bolts came off the cranks is still salvageable but the bolt holes will need to be redone. Has anyone heard anything negative on this?

    I will post Pictures and finding after we unveil the issue. Going to give it a strong push tomorrow.
  8. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    When I was an apprentice I was involved in a truck repair where the Owner of the truck had rebuilt his 8V 71 fully and managed to get it going reasonably well.

    Somewhere along the way he had replaced a couple of flywheel bolts with low grade ones, these failed and the remaining ones followed suit. The torque setting for tightening anything seemed to be something that the Owner was unaware of.

    The the crank and flywheel were both badly damaged and had to be replaced.

    This was a highway vehicle going along at a pretty good clip when it all came apart, hopefully yours will not be as lunched as this one was.
  9. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Yes, I know about special bolts and special tightening method. The bolts are suppose to stretch inside the threads of the crankshaft. Im not getting a warm and fuzzy with a helical repair, but might be worth a shot buffer complete rebuild.
  10. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    There is something to be said for preparing for a complete duffer when dealing with the unknown, that way if it isn't as bad as it could have been you feel relieved, if it is then at least you were prepared for it.
  11. Ormond Bert54

    Ormond Bert54 Senior Member

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    The good news is that once you take that interior out once (it should really only be removal of the L shaped couch and the large rear window). Then you can mark all the screws that must be removed to make this happen. The second time for me was a breeze. The island where the fridge is does not need to come out.
  12. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    So are you offering to come over and take apart the boat for him? :D hehehe
  13. Ormond Bert54

    Ormond Bert54 Senior Member

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    Not even for a closest friend:cool:
  14. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Okay,

    So here is the scoop. I took down the turbos.. yawn.. I took off exhaust and elbows. I took down Air boxes. Unbolted Coupler and pushed it as far back as it would travel. Unbolted rear mounts. Loosened front mounts. Broke open my Statics text book from my engineering college days and then we tore up the new carpet in salon. Moved furniture around to situate Cherry picker.

    We first raised the engine up as high as it needed to go to unbolt the motor mounts bracket from the flywheel housing side. Then we supported the engine alone on the bottom of the hull at three points. We began to lift tranny until top nuts became stiff, then lowered and pulled them out. We pushed on the top tranny lip with a 30lb chisel like bar. It worked wonders. As the tranny came out we would adjust the height so it would not touch the coupler.

    As soon as we could see the crank, it was GOOD NEWS! Crank end was intact and Bolts had all sheared. 4 of them had sheared a long time ago before I bought the boat. The two I had left went 1000 hrs. We were able to back off some of the sheared bolts already with out extraction tool. Will bring in professionals for final job. There is some wear n tear on the flywheel and we are having a machine shop take a look at it to see if its do able.

    The crank looks pretty solid.. Nothing like 1980's made in the Good Ole USA steel...!!!!

    Thanks for all your inputs. I hope to be up an running by the weekend.

    Hit'm!,
    CaptOz
  15. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Tranny Removal Pics

    Here are some pics...

    Attached Files:

  16. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    More Pics of Tranny removal

    Im sure we have more but this is all I had on my phone.

    Attached Files:

  17. K1W1

    K1W1 Senior Member

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    Hi,

    That is good news, thank you for posting back the update.

    I wonder if they failed because they were over torqued or had been used as few times and past their best.

    Do all the bolts have similar heads? By this mean are they all genuine hi grade bolts or are there a couple of odd ones in there?

    The foreman I had when I was in involved in the V8 one used to say new bolts are cheap insurance and we used to replace bolts a lot more often than the manuals asked for.

    He used to also encourage us to use new matching bolts and washers on the covers, oil pan etc on the engine when doing a major overhaul, he felt it is something Owners would appreciate and made the engine look neater and tidier.

    It is a trait that has stood me in good stead for many years.

    These days CAT say to use new flywheel bolts every time on the C 18's. I am assuming it will be a similar instruction throughout the range.
  18. Capt J

    Capt J Senior Member

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    I agree, new bolts are a lot cheaper than having to replace broken bolts.
  19. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Of course all the bolts will be new, since I have ZERO bolts left.. .LOL

    The Flywheel looks like the through bolt holes are too damaged.. lets see what the shop says..
  20. CaptOz

    CaptOz Member

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    Here are the Bolts.. I just ordered them today from RPM Diesel in Ft. Lauderdale. I should have them tomorrow.

    Attached Files: