[zappiros]

Hello friends, I am painting my boat and I would like to know which is the best composite to seal the perpendicular joint (or corner joint) between the fly bridge console and the floor, (please see picture attached...), this joint will be painted later with awlgrip 2000....
I Bought the boat second hand...and I think it had 5200 on this joint before, painted with anti skid paint up to 1" to the console wall (was awful jejejeje) ....problem was that paint was cracked all around joint.....so I decide to take off all the joint material and replaced with new one (by the way I am doing a 1" non skid border all around the furniture...so antiskid starts 1" separated from the console now (no Awful...) the painter doing the job, recommended sikaflex 291...but I am not sure about it, because he is also not sure about it to !!!!!

anyway....any advice will be extremely appreciated !!!

thanks in advance

PS: Joint is where tip of screwdriver is...jejejee Just in case

[franzmerenda]

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...0440094930.pdf

[zappiros]

Originally Posted by franzmerenda

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...0440094930.pdf

Wow !!! that was fast !!! whats the catch...?

just kidding...thanks !!!!

[Bill106]

While you can paint over a non-silicone based caulk, if it flexes at all the paint will flake off in short order. A better method is to completely remove all caulk then paint both sides of the joint before recaulking it. We use the less-yellowing 3M4000 product since it seems to go two to three times as long before yellowing compared to the much stronger 3M5200. In non-structral applications 4000 is just fine. Sikaflex also makes a good product which is quite comparable.

An alternate method if the installation is permanent is to pull a fillet of epoxy/cabosil mix and fair and prime it but only if it will never be removed and there's no access points beneath.

[Capt J]

Originally Posted by Bill106

While you can paint over a non-silicone based caulk, if it flexes at all the paint will flake off in short order. A better method is to completely remove all caulk then paint both sides of the joint before recaulking it. We use the less-yellowing 3M4000 product since it seems to go two to three times as long before yellowing compared to the much stronger 3M5200. In non-structral applications 4000 is just fine. Sikaflex also makes a good product which is quite comparable.

An alternate method if the installation is permanent is to pull a fillet of epoxy/cabosil mix and fair and prime it but only if it will never be removed and there's no access points beneath.

THIS. Paint it without any caulking in the joint......I've never played with 4000, but I really like lifeseal (not lifecaulk) for exterior caulking.