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35bert 05-28-2009 07:56 AM

35 Bertram: full restoration & repower
 
sorry about the 200k photos I thought that was the correct image size I'll re size to 600 pix......

I'll put down a full refit list later....

35bert 05-28-2009 08:03 AM

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here we go

35bert 05-28-2009 08:05 AM

on to carbon
 
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more sticky days

35bert 05-28-2009 08:08 AM

grind sand test fit
 
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it's so much fun think I build a cabon hard top

K1W1 05-28-2009 08:10 AM

Hi,

Much better size :)

Did a full peel and repair to a 42ft Sailboat once, I know what was involved in that only too well.

35bert 05-28-2009 08:11 AM

trailerable
 
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and she's worked my body and it hurts all over.......... test fit and re test fit and prime hibuild then 545....

35bert 05-28-2009 08:17 AM

the crapyest job in the world
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by K1W1
Hi,

Much better size :)

Did a full peel and repair to a 42ft Sailboat once, I know what was involved in that only too well.


peeling bottom just sucked I'd rather do any thing, lay up is not any better and faring and blocking is just as bad... just hell under there for two or three months... LOL

thanks

35bert 05-28-2009 08:29 AM

just me my sata and a lot of awlgrip
 
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and they say awlgrip is tricky but thats mostly painters that want 20k to spray me.. good thing I can spray... lol

35bert 05-28-2009 08:38 AM

a little clear gos a long way
 
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and some hard where fitting and almost finished 6 months later that was so ez...... lol

35bert 05-28-2009 08:41 AM

and its time to go to work
 
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so here is the last photo 4 now,, tower test fit

hope you all git a kick out of the 1973 carbon bottom bertram refit...

35bert 05-28-2009 12:53 PM

acoustic insulation
 
ya....... so this stuff has been bugging me for 3 days...... love to have a bilge lined with 2lib barrier and perforated aluminum. But for less weight I can put in a solid granite honeycomb Veneer salon floor 3lbs per ft... and now I do not want a stone floor in my boat or a lead lined bilge...... I have spent a lot of time and $$$$$ to cut weight. using composits that will not rot and are much stronger that the factory ply wood.... just to put 400lbs of lead in the bilge. now I also do not want a noisy salon so this is where the trouble starts... she was lined from bertram with marine board but alto it navy rated its not considered to be the best sound barrier. now at bertram they thought a lot about a lot of stuff like how to make the air clean in the entier bilge and is more then good flow for to days smaller hi power hi reveing diesels with smaller displacements.... but not the best for stopping them diesels from making that lo's pulsing from under you feat... cats are know to be real loud when ur running a B out the cut the 28 the school runs is loud...
see the engine room truly starts at the center bulk head the only kinda full bulkhead in a 35' and stops at the transom on a 35' there are two partial bulkheads on each side of the motor and two 3/4 pieces of ply glassed to each side of the gas tank. she pulls air from an air box on the side of the boat and from 4 clam shell vents. the air box is ducked around and dumps between the diesels and the clam shells dump along the hull in front and back of the motors but on the other sides of the partial bulk heads. now changing this is no ez task and is a bad move any way I think of it. and lets face it I am not mach for the guy who thought this out the first time....

so I'm thinking light weight navy marine board wight heat barrier.... no lead...

35bert 05-28-2009 05:12 PM

MORE POWER little space
 
so its also about time to run the gen systems. that means fun with amp's... I have been planing to run two d7 diesels with a set of 5000wat gen heads. now the d7 is rated at 6 hp and 4.5kw and seeing as I'd like to keep them belt driven to keep them small I'll need to go with two barring heads. now I have to have a head that I can parallel to 120vac so I can pull around 36 amps witch is the max start load on the ac with the pump running. so now the only two 5000w gen heads that can be paralleled that I have seen out there are the north star 5000w and the blue chines gen heads that are brush heads not brushless like the northstar.. now winco's head can't be paralleled so are there any others???????????? just need a solid 36 amps out of these d7's

35bert 05-28-2009 11:24 PM

or just 1lb lead barrier glued to 1/8 fiberglass panels???

35bert 05-29-2009 07:17 PM

lead belly
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 35bert
ya....... so this stuff has been bugging me for 3 days...... love to have a bilge lined with 2lib barrier and perforated aluminum. But for less weight I can put in a solid granite honeycomb Veneer salon floor 3lbs per ft... and now I do not want a stone floor in my boat or a lead lined bilge...... I have spent a lot of time and $$$$$ to cut weight. using composits that will not rot and are much stronger that the factory ply wood.... just to put 400lbs of lead in the bilge. now I also do not want a noisy salon so this is where the trouble starts... she was lined from bertram with marine board but alto it navy rated its not considered to be the best sound barrier. now at bertram they thought a lot about a lot of stuff like how to make the air clean in the entier bilge and is more then good flow for to days smaller hi power hi reveing diesels with smaller displacements.... but not the best for stopping them diesels from making that lo's pulsing from under you feat... cats are know to be real loud when ur running a B out the cut the 28 the school runs is loud...
see the engine room truly starts at the center bulk head the only kinda full bulkhead in a 35' and stops at the transom on a 35' there are two partial bulkheads on each side of the motor and two 3/4 pieces of ply glassed to each side of the gas tank. she pulls air from an air box on the side of the boat and from 4 clam shell vents. the air box is ducked around and dumps between the diesels and the clam shells dump along the hull in front and back of the motors but on the other sides of the partial bulk heads. now changing this is no ez task and is a bad move any way I think of it. and lets face it I am not mach for the guy who thought this out the first time....

so I'm thinking light weight navy marine board wight heat barrier.... no lead...


well I broke down and went with the 1lb 1in barrier foam insulation with radiant heat foil liner total wight of 120lbs.... I boxed in the whole engine compartment leaving 1 ft openings next to each clam shell vent tube, with a 2 ft baffled on the other side of the vent tube. I installed it by spraying glue on the insulation & what ever we were attaching insulation to also go a thick coat of glue. on the hull sides where there is no wood to screw in too I glassed 2in strips of ply wood and covered it all with glue. then after all insulation was glued in I drilled small holes in the insulation to get thro the rubber lead liner and anchored it all down using 1 1/2in stainless screws and 2" stainless washers... I ran screws every 18in or so and 12in or so on the undersides of the hatches and floor...

I will post some shots of my new shiny finished bilge.....:)

35bert 05-30-2009 11:01 PM

forward salon bilge
 
Well moving on from lining the engine room with the led mat insulation. And on to lining the forward salon bilge. The bilge just in front of the engine room houses the A/C systems, A/C pumps, raw water wash down pump, fresh water system pump, fresh water tank, water heater, water system bilge box and black water system tank. At bertram they put the water tank in between the two center stringers and glass a piece of 3/4 inch ply-wood over the top. For 20 or so years the only prob was a dirty ugly bilge coverd in gray paint, untill the water tank rots out... So I cut a hole in the ply and pulled what was left of the old tank.. I put a water blatter in and installed a hatch in the whole I cut to remove the old tank... When it came to sound proofing I went with a 1 lb barrier glued to 1/8 fiberglass reinforced plastic. It's not as sound proofed a method as the engine room, and causes a lot of interior sound reflection. Now any sound leaving the space will still have to pass thro the barrier & I do not think the same level of deadening is needed to quite pumps & A/C. It also allows for a real clean install of all the systems, lots of witch are mounted on the roof and walls. I'd love to line the engine room with the same stuff but the noise in the engine room will make an inspection of the running motors less then pleasant or require me to put on aircraft runway earmuffs. Or I can cough up the $360 bucks and 90 lbs for the perforated aluminum and that is most likely the safer bet for a cosmetically clean and fully functional sound deadened bilge.... for now I'll just stick with the foil liner in the engine room but the thought is there so you never know......


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