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35 Bertram: full restoration & repower

 
 
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:43 PM   #61 (permalink)
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fitting the tower hard top

photo 1 shows the way we notched the top to slip thro the front tower tubes, if you look close you can see the center is filled with what was removed ll the pieces will be glassed in for final install. the 2 photo gives you an idea where the radar will end up and the 3'rd photo you can see the way the mounting style will allow the hard top to over hang the tubing with out having a two piece tower....
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:50 PM   #62 (permalink)
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getting dussty with the cockpit hardtop

sanding is fun
first shot is of tommy filling pin holes the 2'nd photo show the two top we are messing with. the 3'rd shot is of the final sand b4 hi build primer.
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Old 10-20-2009, 07:33 PM   #63 (permalink)
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in stalling the top

photo 1 is how I patched the cuts in the tuna tower hard top. photo 2 & 3 is the cockpit hard top half installed bolted to the salon roof and held up by 2x4 till the pipe is welded.
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Old 10-20-2009, 07:36 PM   #64 (permalink)
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here fishy fishy I see you

so photo 1 & 2 show the glass window in the built in bate tank it will be lit with and ocean led....
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Old 10-20-2009, 07:39 PM   #65 (permalink)
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finaly the cabin

the first two photos show the start of the build and the unfinished mahogany... the last photo show the unfinished and tow coat of 5 to 1 epoxy
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Old 10-20-2009, 07:41 PM   #66 (permalink)
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epoxy it all

nothing will ever bend or even if that window gets left open...
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Old 10-20-2009, 07:52 PM   #67 (permalink)
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gimbeling the stove

in photo 1,,, I removed the trim on the side of the seaward stove & gimbeled the stove you can also see the teak trim going in and the quilted maple down stars in the birth the 2nd photo is a close up of the maple..
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:31 PM   #68 (permalink)
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finishing up the cockpit hard top

so shot one shows why not to use a spade drill to drill holes ended up braking my hand when the bit stuck,, photo 2 and 3 show the legs that support the back of the hard top...
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:33 PM   #69 (permalink)
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so shot one shows why not to use a spade drill to drill holes ended up braking my hand when the bit stuck,, photo 2 and 3 show the legs that support the back of the hard top...

sorry heres the photos....
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:03 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Time for the yacht surveyor

well I need to put some new photos up... I had the bertram bottom and seacocks and pluming checked by a yacht surveyor, kinda a 50% survey so I can finish up dock side.. All he rely had to say was there were no voids in the hull and to make a sticker for the factory fuel tank listing a build date. We chatted a little about how I was going to run the ac/dc system and he was on his way... I stressed it for a week but turns out my friends have been harder on me about how to build this boat then the surveyor, my friends do work on mega yachts and are well payed so there is no real surprise.

I will be splashing in soon... I'll post some finished bilge pluming photos and pic's of the ac/dc system being installed. happy thanks giving every one
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:06 PM   #71 (permalink)
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I have been giving this some thought and the real draw back to the bladder is not being able to have float for a water level gauge, other then going below and taking a look you can't tell. I think an alu tank covered with fiberglass glass may hold up with the tank filled with water. A tank coated like that will last for ever filled with gas but the gas fumes keep the salt air out. Diesel & water may not be the same but can tell you the alu tanks that I see rotted out are form the out side in.

Plastic now that's kind of nice thought for a water tank my head tanks looks nice at 10 years old and has had worse then water in it and do not think it was the fumes that prevented the rot on this one.. Plastic would need a vent but may not rot like alu or cost an arm and leg like ss or have to be float less like a bladder. it may also have its draw backs but its just a thought,,,

While that is true, you can use a pneumatic bubbler type gauge which measures the head pressure of the water. You basically pump a little pump, manual or electric until bubbles blow iout the end which is at the bottom. Then the watter level rises back up into the tube creating pressure which is measured by a sensitive pressure gauge and calibrated to your installation. There are several of these systems around, we have a Heart setup on all out tanks feeding the data to an FT monitoring system. The other good thing about this system for fuel is that it takes all electrical components out of the fuel.

BTW, nice job, what resin did you use for the layup?
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Old 11-27-2009, 12:04 PM   #72 (permalink)
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While that is true, you can use a pneumatic bubbler type gauge which measures the head pressure of the water. You basically pump a little pump, manual or electric until bubbles blow iout the end which is at the bottom. Then the watter level rises back up into the tube creating pressure which is measured by a sensitive pressure gauge and calibrated to your installation. There are several of these systems around, we have a Heart setup on all out tanks feeding the data to an FT monitoring system. The other good thing about this system for fuel is that it takes all electrical components out of the fuel.

BTW, nice job, what resin did you use for the layup?

Thank you & Thanks for the info.. I'll have to look into that, I do need a float for my main fuel tank as well as the fresh water...

I used a fire retardant epoxy resin on the aluminum auxiliary/bio diesel fuel tanks. I don't think it needed to be fire retardant seeing as it was a uscg approved fuel tank to start with but a friend hooked me up with the resin so I used it..... I've hear bad things about polyester resin tanks with gas/bio/svo but have been told its fine for diesel, vinyl ester or epoxy should be fine for almost any fuel.

That's if you were talking about the tank lay up... I have pored 200 or so gallons on the boat & parts, I have used all kinds of resin they all have there place. As you may know as long as you never put polyester or vinyl ester over epoxy you'll be ok and if you need to fill more than 1/4 inch use an epoxy fairing compound.....

one of the biggest trick I have found is, SUPER STICKY PAST made by ebond!!!!!!!!!!!!!
this is a thickened 2 part epoxy that will hold epoxy soaked 50oz tri axil carbon fiber upside down.... it also gives you fill and can help flatten tricky lay ups and by the time you roll out all the air the slime will be raping the fibers giving you a crazy epoxy bond.

There is also faststone after you put this epoxy stuff on you can spray it with water and rub it flat with you bare hand un cured & drys wet!!!!!

Most of my fill I make using micro spheres or micro balloons and epoxy..... it will not crack or shrink like polyester fillers.. You can add a lot of dust for ultra light fill or keep it wet and strong.. I have a 3 inch thick piece of light fill that dryed in the mixing cup it is very hard to brake with a hammer. but its not cheep and you can't go back to polyester once you use it......
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:36 PM   #73 (permalink)
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wow I need to post some photos.

here's a start... rub rail I went pvc with rubber insert.. stainless is nice but this will not dent,,,,
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:39 PM   #74 (permalink)
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mahogany salon door

start to glue up... the top is not glued till the glass is installed
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:43 PM   #75 (permalink)
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little of this little of that

gen ellbow being awlgriped, both the search lights, and the unfinished panel the bottom panel has no epoxy on it yet that is the color differs..

this is all old I have to take some new photos,,,,
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