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35 Bertram: full restoration & repower

 
 
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Old 06-03-2009, 06:55 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I want here in the water not in the rain

well this week we are finishing the bilge sound deadening, 5200ing the thro hulls above water line & all the stainless hardwhare. we also pulled all the salon windows and simflexed them back in, 3 days after one window shattered in the night I was laze when installing the last window and over lapped the trim once it was screw down in must have bent the glass and shattered it days later. I am having a new one made now... The rain keeps falling so I do not want to 5200 in the seacocks in fearing that the bilge will fill with water and cover my fresh 5200. worse then that the wiginns lift is down in the yard & keeping me from putting my motors in place, my racors in and the interior in & salon doors in & so on...

today I think were going to finish the anchor locker and maybe put the bomar hatches in i am also try and plum the bilge pumps, and water system... well see how the weather holds, its raining now
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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nothing but sun!

3 full days with no water falling. That is big this time of year in Florida
I switched gears away from the sound deadening and pluming the water system and all the stuff that can be done at the dock but gets done in the rain. So after that bilge was good and dry we got to the thro hulls & seacocks... I had to go with fast 5200 with rain ever looming off in the distance, but the stuff drys quick at 96deg and rain never fell...


I know star board is the shim of choice for thro hulls but I do not like it I think it is BS and there are much better reasons for using marine ply wood. I have a stack of star board I layed out $60 bucks for the marine ply so cost is not a reason, I think starboard is to heavy it yellows in uv rays and is only good for a cheap cutting boards sold at wall mart...... 1 The fact is that if in a year or thirty years you do leak a little water you will just keep leaking with star board, ply wood dose like wood boat have for the last 4000 years or more and swells then the leak stops... 2 noting bonds to starboard NOTHING not paint, glue, fiberglass, epoxy nothing and that INCLUEDES 5200, that's why you need to rough up the side being glued for it to stick so it can grab the little plastic hairs and bumps... Now I know what your thinking "well starboard will not rot" well the ply wood in my navy run bertram that was a daily driver 37 years had factory plywood thro hulls with no rot.. I have saved samples of what I have taken off the bertram and put on and I know they are factory shims see the same green putty that bertram used to glue in the fuel tank, salon bulk head, engine bunks and so on is all over the shin and needed to be chiseled out. Now what bertram did was slap a bunch of fiberglass filler to the hull the stuck 3/4 marine ply to it then cut there holes and good for 37 years. What I have done was the same alto I used epoxy to make my filler and used mostly resin in the mix to make it rock slid, the epoxy takes a bit to set and the resin soaks into the ply wood bonding the heck out of it. The top and sides are left dry to soak and breath if need be.

The rain will be back this week so I know I'll be bilge rating it but I am a step closer to the water any way
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Old 06-13-2009, 01:28 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35bert
........... fearing that the bilge will fill with water and cover my fresh 5200.
Hi.

It is very difficult to apply underwater and gets in your hair and all over your dive gear but it does go off under salt water so don't think it would have any issues under fresh water.
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Old 06-13-2009, 07:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Hi.

It is very difficult to apply underwater and gets in your hair and all over your dive gear but it does go off under salt water so don't think it would have any issues under fresh water.


WOW that is cool to know it will work in such extremes... My friend told me it will dry in water yesterday but that is hard core... I was more worried about the pressure from the water if the bilge filled 12in and sunk the fittings before the 5200 kicked. I tend to over think things and it was only the lowest thro hulls next to the keel that I thought it may happen... Thank goodness it has stayed dry 3 days and maybe to day will make a forth.......

I will snap some shots to day
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Why don't you consider using a coring like divynicell instead of plywood as a coring? i agree starboard doesn't have good adhesive properties, but if you're going to coat things with resin and epoxy, divynicell will save you weight and is stronger then plywood.

Yes, 5200 will cure underwater with no adverse effects. Also, if you keep opened 5200 in the refrigerator, the opened tube will not harden until you let it warm up and go to use it again.
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Old 06-13-2009, 05:04 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Why don't you consider using a coring like divynicell instead of plywood as a coring? i agree starboard doesn't have good adhesive properties, but if you're going to coat things with resin and epoxy, divynicell will save you weight and is stronger then plywood.

Yes, 5200 will cure underwater with no adverse effects. Also, if you keep opened 5200 in the refrigerator, the opened tube will not harden until you let it warm up and go to use it again.

I have heard you can do the same refrigerator trick with with mixed awl grip


I built every thing out of nidacore, foam nomex honeycomb to lose weight all but the factory bulkheads. I may have cut as much as 5 or 6 thousand lbs so far. I thought of using a composit but the only core that acts like plywood under a compression load a little is nilaboard, I built engine bunks with the stuff and covered in with kevlar...but it will not soak water so whats the point of using it for thro hull shims. See the ply is only glassed to the hull not inclosed when you fully inclose wood it rots it needs to breath as they say. Also if you leak you need it to swell so you cant glass the top or sides... cores are funny there not good for putting a screw or nut and bolt thro it will compress the aria right under the washer and start to delaminate the whole thing, you need a solid core if your going to do any bolting, that is why bertram put aluminum in the balsa decks and hard top where the seating and fly bridge screws in. Cores do not like to bend they are strong cuz they make an I beam if one side of glass skin moves integrity is lost and you will have a failure....

The only reason to put a shim under a thro hull on a solid glass hull like my old bertram is to stop water if you leak bertram did not put shims under the drain plug cuz there is no valve to turn and stress the sealant that over time may cause a leak. The hull is over an inch thick at some of the thro hulls much stronger then any shim you can think of.. new cored boats need a shim to reinforce so the first reason "stopping leaks" to put a shim there was abandon buy boat builders at the first trade show that they went to... in place a shiny piece of junk.... there was a lot of thought given at one point to this kinda stuff but to day junk sells and most times the bigger the boat get the dumber the owner gets at least with power boaters....
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah you can refrigerate Awlgrip for about a day and use it the next day.......after that it starts to skin and get lumpy
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:17 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Yeah you can refrigerate Awlgrip for about a day and use it the next day.......after that it starts to skin and get lumpy

I never tried the awl grip trick, I spray awlgrip so can't risk shooting bad paint. I even dump whats at the bottom of my pot at the end of a shoot and start fresh.

I got a look at divynicell and it will work as a shim like nilaboard its strong stuff. I still just think that plywood has that one benefit of soaking water and swelling, there is no other shim I have come across that seems to able to soak and dry a couple 1000 times and remain unchanged. And I am in the minority here on that, but it just the way I see it...
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:45 AM   #24 (permalink)
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35Bert,

That is an incredible project.

I have done a ton of work on my 35' but nothing close to what you have done.

Keep the photos coming, as you are doing what I have always dreamed of doing to my Bert.

Mike C
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:45 AM   #25 (permalink)
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35Bert,

That is an incredible project.

I have done a ton of work on my 35' but nothing close to what you have done.

Keep the photos coming, as you are doing what I have always dreamed of doing to my Bert.

Mike C


Thank you

I hate to put up the shots of un finished work up, before I have the shot of it looking finished and clean... I have a lot more shots where the boat looks like its a pile of scrap. Its funny with big projects at times if feels like the world thinks your crazy, un till they can start to see your vision.

I will list some new shots of the bilge and the muir windlass and hynautic controls we installed also the thro hulls seacocks and ocean led's and stuff... if there is some thing you'd like to see more of from the project let me know as I all ready have 100's of photos over the last two years..
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:48 PM   #26 (permalink)
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stainless thru hulls and muir windlass

here are some in progress shots
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:51 PM   #27 (permalink)
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dirty bilge

getting it all in place
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:54 PM   #28 (permalink)
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interlux 2000 then the micron 66 & the water line

love the smell....
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:57 PM   #29 (permalink)
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water line and hull cores...

the thickest is next to the keel 1 1/4 the second is by the side on the bottom for the sink drain 1"
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:00 PM   #30 (permalink)
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transom bottom core & stainless passage bomars

1 1/2" solid!!!!!!!!! note the 1/16 carbon barrier coat...
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