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Hi Bob,
Great post! I've used 3M's "Imperial" line of Liquid Compounds for over 20 years (available in most auto paint supply stores). This is a two step process starting with their Microfinishing compound, followed by a glazing compound. The first being used to breakdown heavily oxidized surfaces and the latter of the two will bring out a brand new, just released from the mold finish.
It's a LOT of work, using a high speed wheel with a lambskin bonnet, but it's worked extremely well for me over the years. I've been looking for something that would require less steps to bring about the same results and the system you've eluded to sounds like the ticket.
It's about that time of year again to buff the deck, so I'm going to give it a try. I might add this... I used a polymer based wax last year to protect the newly buffed finish (Ultra-Wax from Rain-X) and I have to say I'm impressed with how well it has held up. For many years, I've used Rain Dance, thinking this.. the harder I work, the longer it will last. Wrong! These new polymer waxes are EXTREMELY easy to apply and even EASIER to remove. I'll never go back to "carnuba" based waxes again. (I think I spelled that correctly)
Another thing I might add... I tried an "orbital" buffer for the first time last year and was NOT impressed with the finish it left. Granted, there were less swirl marks, but these types of buffers don't have the speed that results in a "mirror" type finish. They are however, good for applying/removing wax.
If you have an oxidized deck and you want to restore a new finish, you simply must use a high-speed wheel. I use a Sears Craftsmen Grinder, with a rubber wheel and bonnet. That machine has served me well for nearly 20 years.
Thanks for your post. Great info!
Carl
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