That may be. But as I've pointed out before, few production boats tout themselves as able to cross oceans on their own bottoms as does Nordhavn.
"Nordhavn - Power That Is Oceans Apart"
And just because the rest, or most of the rest, of the production manufacturers get it wrong doesn't seem to be very relevant to the issue at hand to me.
But I guess Nordhavn could add a new slogan to their ads like, "Nordhavn - outfitted at least as well as the other guys!"
"As to the issue of 120v vs 24v pumps... It certainly wouldn't have made a difference in this situation, and I can't imagine a situation in which it would. If the shorepower were to go out, the bilge pumps would still be effectively coupled to the batteries, via the inverters. We are really discussing nothing more than wire size, and generally speaking, smaller wires with higher voltage are better."
Let's start with converting DC to AC is an inefficient way to run your bilge pumps. Then move on to the whole "is the operation of the inverter system automatic or not" question, plus it adds at least one more failure point to an unnecessarily complex system, etc.
As to the wiring make up, I'd rather have as little AC wiring, large or small gauge, any where near bilge water that I may need to be standing in to fix a leak. With sealed batteries your DC pumps may continue to run even when the batteries become submerged. And in point of fact if your bilge is or has filled with to much water, turning off all AC systems might very well be necessary to keep from getting electrocuted while finding and stemming the leak.